tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86460307337957015112024-03-13T20:34:38.893+05:30Himalayan AdventurerMusings of a travel-happy medical doctor let loose upon this world :)Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.comBlogger191125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-84266604448493570952017-06-01T16:52:00.000+05:302017-06-01T19:35:59.480+05:30REVERSE PSYCHOLOGY<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">REVERSE PSYCHOLOGY<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Recently on my visit to Chawri Bazaar in old and real Delhi,
where my ancestors settled, lived and thrived ever since Bahadur Shah Zafar
left Delhi, the paanwala (read panwaari) gave me a good lesson in Reverse
Psychology. Before I give you my story, let me explain what Reverse Psychology
is. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">By the way, Chawri Bazaar is close to Chandni Chowk. Metro stops
at both these places. For the uninitiated, the important landmarks of Old Delhi
are, Ajmeri Gate (adjacent to the New Delhi Railway station), Sita Ram Bazaar,
Lal Kuan, Jama Masjid, Fateh Puri, Town Hall, Nai Sarak, Kinari bazaar, etc.
The famous ‘parathe wali gali’ is in a narrow street off Chandni Chowk. Many
important historical landmarks are there; Lal Kila, Jain Temple and its world famous
Birds’ Hospital, Gauri Shankar Mandir, Gurudwara Shish Ganj sahib, Ghalib’s
haveli and many others. This area is famous for many age-old traditions in
eateries. Parathe of parathe wali gali, dahi-bhalla of Central Bank, various
kinds of chaats, paan, kulfi, daulat ki chaat, nagori-sabji-halwa,
poori-berami-sabji and a lot more. Some of the most famous mughlai dishes you
get around Jama Masjid area. And then, there is this kheer, cooked slowly for
hours together on slow wood fire. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">If you are not sure of what Reverse Psychology is, let me
explain it for you by the famous example of Shakespeare's characters Romeo and
Juliet. Why Romeo and Juliet fell so passionately in love with each other? Or
for that matter, Majnu-Laila, Heer-Ranjha, Sassi-Punnu, Shirin-Farhad. So many
of our Bollywood movies, the hero and heroine have been victims of this process
of psychology. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Anarkali, Ek Duje Ke Liye,
QSQT (Qayamat Se Qamayat Tak), DDLJ (Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge)</i> have
exploited it to dramatize a simple story. The list is endless. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">If you remember any of the stories, the progress of all stories
is the same. The two lovers meet and take a liking for each other. If the story
ended here, they might have gotten together for life; or be happy for a few
months and then discover that they are very different and don’t really see the
future for themselves. No one would write an epic for them, or make a
blockbuster Bollywood movie. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">But, the families play spoilsport; forbid them to see or meet up
with each other. That only fuels their desire to be together. The more family
resists, more intense the attraction gets. Because, something happens that
pushes them towards each other and makes them fight till death for their love. What
is it? The fact that both families ordered the young lovers not to see each other;
and this very reason pulls them towards each other with a magnetic force that
no force on earth can pull them apart. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Whenever somebody forbids us to do something, our sense of
freedom is endangered. Rebellion becomes our natural reaction. This is at its
maximum during our adolescence and young adulthood, the age of risk-taking
behaviour. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This is why using reverse psychology is such an efficient tool
for making others do what you want. It is achieved by telling people to do
opposite of what you actually wish them to do. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The effect of Reverse Psychology on group behaviours has been
exploited extensively by tobacco companies no ends. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxu9cTrC-ONlZTvOmqblcb5UWhrH0M457eksY2NO2OFMQlogiRJucFTWsT0Lx5O78jO9KsqtYRtiAKSRSzia_pV-kLSud8IAJVqFERYgvI1eDo3TJ5hll2hCySASo2afGUH13sPmmljBY/s1600/tob1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="173" data-original-width="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxu9cTrC-ONlZTvOmqblcb5UWhrH0M457eksY2NO2OFMQlogiRJucFTWsT0Lx5O78jO9KsqtYRtiAKSRSzia_pV-kLSud8IAJVqFERYgvI1eDo3TJ5hll2hCySASo2afGUH13sPmmljBY/s1600/tob1.jpeg" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">All over the world, most of the countries run regular campaigns
for their citizens, especially young, to refrain from smoking. The government
puts many restriction on the sale of tobacco, puts statutory warning on the
cigarette packets, depicts horrible pictures of victims of tobacco related
cancers, and runs advocacy programmes against tobacco use for the school and
college students. Tobacco companies know very well how Reverse Psychology
works. If they have to promote sales of their products, they like to catch the
young population that is their biggest markets. As part of corporate social
responsibility, they undertake, finance, and sponsor such programmes directed
towards school and university students. The apparent tone of the campaign is
‘Say No to Drugs’, ‘Do Not Smoke’, ‘Tobacco Kills’, ‘Smoking Causes Cancer’
etc. Such messages, packaged beautifully and parroted by attractive models,
kindle risk-taking behaviours of the youth. And the tobacco company succeeds in
their ulterior motive of increasing sales of their product, and laughing all
the way to bank. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Back to the story at Chawri Bazaar. I had gone there to buy
‘kulfi’ for a family dinner. At Sita Ram Bazaar (adjacent to Chawri Bazaar),
you get the best kulfi in the town. Over the years (since my childhood), we
have patronized two most famous ones, Duli Chand and Kure Mal, who have been
into the business for generations. The same is true for ‘paan’ also; you get
the best paans in old Delhi. So I decided to buy some paan too for the evening.
Since I was buying quite a few, I had to stay there for some time; while making
paans for me, the paanwala was attending to other customers as well. They were
mostly for packaged water, or buying cigarettes. What surprised me was that the
customers bought one stick only, and none bought the full packet. Each such stick
cost INR 7 or 10. There were posters in the shop warning about the dangers of
smoking. But none was paying any attention to these. When only two of us were
left, I asked him if all the campaign against smoking has dented his sales of
cigarettes. He looked at me with an expression as if I had asked him a stupid
question. He said, “Ever since these campaigns and advertisements against
smoking have begun, the sales of cigarettes have only increased.” He further
said that many years ago, the price of a cigarette packet, and he emphasized
packet once more, was increased by 10 paise only; the result was the sales
decreased by half. Why, because there was no advertisement against smoking then.
Advertisement helps increase the sales, even if it is negative. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Badnaam huye to kya hua, naam tou hoga!<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">No doubt, tobacco is a big killer all over the world. Even if it
does not kill, it impairs our health by affecting practically all the organs
and systems of the body. If our anti-tobacco programmes have to succeed, there
is need to think fresh about how we wish to run our campaign. </span><b><i><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Time
is Now. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></b></span></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-20794119785709982562017-05-18T22:33:00.000+05:302017-06-01T16:56:21.734+05:30I LOVE KASHMIR MORE AND MORE...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">I Love Kashmir More and More…<b><o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Some time
back when Prof Mohd Ashraf Ganie contacted me over phone to be a speaker for
this conference, I was a bit intrigued. First of all, the name of the
conference surprised me: I had never heard a scientific society like ‘Metabolic
Syndrome, Prediabetes and Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome Society’. What is this
kind of Society, which is trying to bring internists, endocrinologists, and
Obs-Gynae experts under one umbrella? Psychiatrists had no place in it, though,
Psychiatry is only obliquely related to all these disorders. A number of new
generation antipsychotic drugs have been shown to result into metabolic
syndrome (weight gain, central obesity, high blood sugar levels) in the users. People
with Prediabetes are at risk for developing depression as well as cognitive
decline. Women with polycystic diseases also have some mental health issues,
which are largely ignored by the patients as well as clinicians. But to call a
Psychiatrist to address these medical experts appeared too far-fetched. I
thought, since Ashraf has been a good friend, he was being a generous host in
giving me a chance to visit Srinagar once again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Well, I
readily accepted his invitation. Who allows a golden opportunity go waste to
visit Kashmir! Visiting Kashmir has always been a pleasurable experience, and
it would be a fantastic opportunity to escape the scorching Sun of Delhi
weather, mercury touching 44 Celsius on daily basis. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm64nuTfgaPHxrhb5Z6qNUbWRwE6NMdTWv-3bHKVc_QCFUiql0zKwN4Xg_JkiSUy1vDM9_GBlFsNjLDc3tLTbJPDfqe_LA9VQo8mLm1U487iUL-T_vMBSkEXWJiNT7KkvbvuhwGR8CoF4/s1600/IMG_20170512_104657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm64nuTfgaPHxrhb5Z6qNUbWRwE6NMdTWv-3bHKVc_QCFUiql0zKwN4Xg_JkiSUy1vDM9_GBlFsNjLDc3tLTbJPDfqe_LA9VQo8mLm1U487iUL-T_vMBSkEXWJiNT7KkvbvuhwGR8CoF4/s320/IMG_20170512_104657.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Emperor Jahangir once said about
Kashmir, “Agar Firdaws ba roy-i-zamin ast, hamin ast-u hamin ast-u hmin ast”,
meaning , If there is Paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this.”<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">However, the
media was reporting some disturbing events taking place every now and then
especially in South Kashmir. Though, there was nothing untoward in these news
about Srinagar, but one exercises some caution while visiting it. My
apprehensions, if any, about visiting the Valley, were immediately put to rest
by Ashraf just by his reassuring phone call. Then I did not look back in making
my preparations. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Ashraf wanted
me to talk on ‘Lifestyle Diseases and Psychiatric Comorbidities’. During our
frequent calls in last few days, he also roped me in to give one more talk on
‘Substance and Alcohol Use: Public Health Implication’. And as if to justify my
visit to this Conference, I also volunteered to speak on ‘Depression and
Non-communicable Diseases’. Believe me, I enjoyed giving all the three talks to
a very receptive audience. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">For my
Delhi-Srinagar flight, I had done web check-in and selected window seat on left
hand side of the aircraft. This way, on a good day, you can view majestic
mountains during Jammu-Srinagar sector. I had been fortunate in my earlier
visits to Srinagar, when miles on I could view mighty Himalayan snow covered
peaks. When I reported at the airport, I was informed by the airlines that I
had been upgraded to business class. However, what I realized, to my dismay,
was that I lost my window seat in the process. It was not a good bargain, since
flying business class for a 90 minute flight gives you no extra benefit except
for some more room and extra calories. And I lost the view in the bargain. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Arriving
Srinagar on the evening of 10<sup>th</sup> May was an exciting experience. The
venue of the conference, Shere-Kashmir International Convention Centre (SKICC),
struck as a venue like out of this world. I have attended my conferences within
and outside the country, but never in my life did I come to a venue as
beautiful as this one. The lush greenery around it, the lake, the flowers all
over, the halls, the ease of going around the venue were all breath taking. The
entire venue was teeming with delegates, busy in animated discussions. Smart
enthusiastic young ladies, who impressed me with their efficiency and courtesy,
were manning the Registration counter and helping with scientific sessions. Later
in the evening we were entertained by local artists with folk music, dance, and
ghazals of popular masters.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDLGZMQqODR6GV0mTCmSOJmpOIDtDyzjgzq12tHv8MTEKTLyQ4M8qIFL6JT-Jal2U_FAhJyanjCqyt-LRcZAI-VolN6RLxrdbG5SIttndZQ41167DU8Hs1eQjpQxrZwq03ZyJRgODpdL4/s1600/IMG_3472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDLGZMQqODR6GV0mTCmSOJmpOIDtDyzjgzq12tHv8MTEKTLyQ4M8qIFL6JT-Jal2U_FAhJyanjCqyt-LRcZAI-VolN6RLxrdbG5SIttndZQ41167DU8Hs1eQjpQxrZwq03ZyJRgODpdL4/s320/IMG_3472.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7KqqRKSU77H5lObwA4zThOUx_x2DRFA_zgVyuSfkDYLprZ_yNoPHdo2u_B2HFsDzqJZWkCl52-NX7WlpuarEbK0DNjlb751bmtaEilfbUmzAgNelsVrCdSEdmpf26VDFddDK5bYJjixA/s1600/IMG_3522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7KqqRKSU77H5lObwA4zThOUx_x2DRFA_zgVyuSfkDYLprZ_yNoPHdo2u_B2HFsDzqJZWkCl52-NX7WlpuarEbK0DNjlb751bmtaEilfbUmzAgNelsVrCdSEdmpf26VDFddDK5bYJjixA/s320/IMG_3522.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The delegates
were from various parts of the country, and so many were overseas delegates.
They had put away all the media scare-mongering, and did not let it come in way
to visiting Kashmir for being part of this Conference. I was told that many
invited speakers had cancelled their visits, and I could only feel pity for
them, since they had missed a golden opportunity to be welcomed by the generous
hosts and local people, and see for themselves that one has to be objective in
making assessment, and not be influenced by the media frenzy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I felt deeply
touched by the warmth and hospitality of the Organizers, volunteers, staff, or
whomsoever I met over last three days. It is difficult to find so much
politeness, courtesy, and love from people anywhere else. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">The
scientific programme was impressively and imaginatively chalked out. I could
find so many illustrious names in the programme, and could meet a number of
them. I attended many scientific sessions, and in each session I learnt a few
‘take home messages’; whether it was listening to an endocrinologist, obs-gynae
specialist, internist, surgeon, paediatrician, orthopaedic surgeon, oncologist,
or a renal specialist, health administrator, or research scientist. Their
presentations were rich in scientific content, and had a message about new
challenges and novel innovations for everyone on lifestyle disorders. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I did find
time to visit the Mughal Gardens once again. They were as beautiful as ever. I
also went to Sonmarg and beyond. The drive to Sonmarg was picturesque, and at
places the landscape was just breathtaking. The road goes all the way to Leh
via Zozila pass, Drass and Kargil. A few kilometers beyond Sonmarg, the trek
starts on the right side to take you to Baltal, and then to the Holy shrine of
Amarnath. The Amarnath yatra will start in June, and continue till mid-August. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I must put on
record my deep appreciation for Ashraf, his wife Sobia and the entire team
behind them. Ashraf had been remarkable in looking after each detail, and
personally attending to the concerns of all delegates, whether it was about
their presentations, their travel or stay arrangements, or looking after their
sightseeing trips. Sobia stood like a solid rock behind him. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">It had been
very heartening to see young people attending the conference. Very impressive
had been to see a large number of young women attending the conference. If
women are taking up higher education and challenging roles in a big way, there
is no doubt that that society is bound to progress further and further. The
testimony to that was the fact that all the three award winners for scientific
presentations on the Valedictory function on 12<sup>th</sup> May were young
ladies. My salute to them. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I also feel
it is high time that the media behaves more responsibly in its reporting on
Kashmir. For the sake of TRP, it has been sensationalizing petty incidents,
which has unnecessarily put all kind of ideas into outsiders’ mind about the
local situation. It only hurts local interests, and prevents people visiting
this magnificent paradise on Earth. Let me give one example, narrated by a
local resident. A few days back there was a heavy downpour for 2-3 days. The
news channel, while reporting on it, showed footage from the havoc of 2104
floods, without clarifying that the footage was an old one. Local people got
panicky that some parts were experiencing Nature’s fury once again!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">I have been
fortunate in coming to Kashmir on regular basis. I have very close and deep
friendship with professional colleagues here, as well as with ordinary
citizens. <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">And every time I come to
Kashmir, I love it more and more. <o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Read my earlier post of January 2016
on Kashmir:<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%;">http://himalayanadventurer.blogspot.in/2016/01/kashmir-personal-narrative.html<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-43862029399992547962016-03-21T22:10:00.001+05:302016-03-21T22:28:37.633+05:30KEDARKANTHA SLIDE SHOW<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Please click on the link below:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102505415752479852948/Kedarkantha" target="_blank">Kedarkantha - slide show</a></div>
Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-13204148490017467682016-03-21T21:59:00.000+05:302016-03-22T22:48:35.299+05:30The Winter Embrace of Kedarkantha<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 32px; text-align: justify;">I am in Berlin, and trying to write this blog entry at 4 am in the morning. This has long been overdue; though I came back to Delhi after doing the Kedarkantha trek in the second week of January, but the life in Delhi has ever since been too hectic at personal and professional fronts, preventing me to jot down a few lines about the amazing trek and my personal reminisces. But it is not to say that the experience has sunk down deep in my memory lane; I often think, remember, live and cherish the time I had with the group during this snowbound trek in very low tempertatures. Even here I wish to look at the photographs.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">I had been
thinking of doing Kedarkantha ever since 2011, when I did Roopkund trek with
the Indiahikes. We were impressed with the logistics and arrangements done by
the Indiahikes, and had wanted to do some more treks with them. Since I had
never done any snow-bound winter trek ever, we zeroed down on Kedarkantha,
which Indiahikes had recently added to its kitty. Meanwhile, Shariff, Malini
(my colleagues) and Vasuman (son) completed the trek long back, and I had to
wait thus far to find or create the opportunity. But then, things are destined,
they say, and I was destined to do this trek with Kushagra, and the fantastic
bunch of 25 young enthusiasts. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">Kushagra was
planning to visit us some time in December 2015, but when I told him about my
intention of booking for Kedarkantha trek in the first week of January, he
firmed up his dates immediately to join me for the trek, as he said, ‘it is
quite a while, we had done a trek together’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">When I looked
at the Indiahikes website to book, I was surprised to see that all the suitable
dates for us were already full. It seemed the trek was fast becoming popular. Fortunately,
I had saved some telephone numbers of Indiahikes from my previous trek, and to
my good luck, the numbers were active, working, and when I rang up, someone
immediately put me in touch with Prathima, who assured me of helping us by
accommodating us on our preferred date. She precisely did that. Prathima was
kind of in-charge of the group leaving on 2<sup>nd</sup> January, and as I
realized, she was mentoring the group throughout. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">Fortunately,
I had already been training myself for this trek for last few months by working
out in gym or going for long walks for cardiopulmonary exercises, endurance,
and strengthening my quads and glutes. The significance of training oneself for
any trek cannot be overemphasized, and Prathima too had been reminding the
group members time and again to practice running 4.5 km in 30 minutes. What I
was a little worried about was managing the low temperatures. In the month of January,
it could go as low as minus 10 C. But when Kush arrived in December, he advised
me very precisely how I should layer myself with specialized layers without
overburdening myself. Though his advice was very reassuring, yet the anxieties
remained.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">That
Kedarkantha was going to be an exciting trek was never in doubt. After all, the
Indiahikes has labeled this trek as the best ever winter trek. It had given
many reasons in support of its verdict: it remains snow bound from December
till April, prettiest campsites, beautiful drive in Himalayas, pleasure of
walking on a carpet of brown leaves with snow peaks all around. I could vouch
for that. We had done nearby ‘Har-ki-Doon’ trek way back in 1993, and to this
day I find ‘Har-ki-Doon’ as one of most beautiful treks. The exciting part of
Kedarkantha was doing it in winter with snow-laden path under extreme cold conditions.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">When I was
preparing myself physically and mentally, Prathima from the Indiahikes was
constantly in touch with all the group members reminding us about how to
prepare ourselves, what all essentials we should carry (no more, no less), what
we should expect by way of arrangements, giving various important contact
numbers etc. The most praiseworthy part was that whenever any member posed any
query on the group email, the response came almost immediately. Meanwhile, one
trek member had soon created a whatsapp group for members to get acquainted
with one another. They were coming from all over, Bengaluru, Pune, Mumbai,
Delhi, Kolkata, and the US. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">Little bit
about Kedarkantha: One has to first reach a village by name of Sankari to begin
the trek.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The road for Sankari (the
starting point for the trek) starts from Mussourie and passes through Kempty
falls, and some other small towns like Barkot, Purola, to enter the Supin range
of Himalayas. A couple of hours before reaching Sankari, one enters Govind wild
life sanctuary, a protected area. One then views two rivers, Supin and Rupin,
and their confluence, which finally merges with river Yamuna. When a few
decades back, my uncle and auntie were trekking towards Har-ki-Doon, they decided
that whenever they were blessed with a daughter, they would name her Rupin; and
they precisely did that. Now Rupin is a smart young lady, working where else
but Silicon Valley. One then reaches Netwar, a small village, which used to be
the starting point for beginning the trek to Har-ki-Doon way back in early
1990s, since that was the end of road head that time. Now road goes as far as
Sankari. Sankari is a small village of about 400 houses at a height of 1950 m
(6400 ft). It has a GMVN guesthouse of about 15 rooms, and a couple of private guesthouses.
Sankari is now the base camp for both, Har-ki-Doon as well as Kedarkantha. Once
you starting walking up, it is all the way uphill trek amidst lush green
forests of pine, oak and other trees. There are two campsites, Juda ka Talab
and Kedarkantha base camp at very picturesque sites, finally taking you to
Kedarkantha peak at 12,500 ft. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">Our journey
from Delhi to Mussourie by train, then onwards to Sankari by SUVs was quite
uneventful. We met up briefly with our batch mates whenever we stopped for
breakfast, tea or lunch on our way up. There were two father-son teams, two
husband-wife teams; many of the members were colleagues or had been friends
since school days. There was a group of 9 from Bengaluru, who had studied
together in school, all graduated from various engineering colleges, and now
were all software engineers in Bengaluru itself. Others were fast becoming
friends with one another. Youngest of the group was 11 year old Shreshtha, and
the oldest was ‘yours truly’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">When we
reached Sankari in the evening, Harshit (trek leader) welcomed us at the guesthouse
along with his team of technical experts, Sarvan and Tarpan, with hot tea and
delicious pakoras. We were tired, and perhaps famished, or the charm of hot
pakoras in a remote area, we ate like hogs. Harshit gave a detailed briefing of
our trek, which I would rate among the best briefings I have ever had. He
explained each point in detail, answered to every query patiently, and did not
mind if there were frequent interruptions or similar questions being asked by
different members. The GMVN guesthouse at Sankari is basic, with spacious and
reasonably clean rooms, toilets with running water, flush working, but no hot
water please. The quilts were heavy but warm, so did not have to struggle for
sleep. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">The morning
was bright and sunny, and after a sumptuous breakfast we were ready to trek to
‘Juda ka talaab’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other groups had
also camped in the village, and their members had left before us. We were to trek
for only 4-5 km, but would gain 2700 ft, so it was an ascent all the way. The
trek passed through a dense forest of pine<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>and maple trees, and I think there were rhododendrons also; did not see
any wild life, birds were chirping, but too high in the pine trees, so could
not sight any. The climb was not tough, but at places, there was slush, or
frozen snow that made the trek slippery at places. But I was happy that I was
making good progress, and not feeling any fatigue. What I had decided this time
was to necessarily consume 3-4 litres of water every day. That is the key to
success; you prevent dehydration, and it prevents mountain sickness. So by the
time we left Sankari, I had already consumed at least 1.5 lt of water. The
campsite was almost like the size of a football field, and had on its left side
the ‘talab’, the pond, of the size of ‘D’ of the field, was half frozen. We
were now at 9200 ft, and the temperature was falling down rapidly. Though we
had reached quite early in the day, I had decided to enter my tent only after
having my dinner. Meanwhile, Kushagra helped the group do some stretching and
flexibility exercises. I continued with my walking and breathing exercises
preparing myself for the tough part over next two days. I started getting
acquainted with the group members, and had found them to be a fantastic bunch.
More about them later. Later in the afternoon, some members got together to
play ‘pitthu’, known as ‘laghori’ in local language, and also known as ‘seven
stones’. It was fun seeing them running around or away from the ball, or
chasing stones and putting them one on top of other. Meanwhile, the kitchen
staff brought hot tea and ‘chatpata pakoras’. Everyone got together to polish
them fast, but the kitchen staff kept on supplying them till we ourselves could
eat no more. I must say something about the kitchen staff right away. They were
an enthusiastic bunch of young people, who never shied away, whether it was
cooking and serving food in sub-zero temperatures, or pouring rains, or at an
unearthly hour of 3 am. And each meal was a multi-course meal, starting with
starters, soup, main course, and dessert, followed by hot chocolate. To top it,
there was hot water available for washing our cup-plates. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">The next day
trek was to Kedarkantha base camp. I wondered why it does not have any other
name. It was at an altitude of 11,400 ft, and of course has no resident
population. From here one could see peaks all around us, but with some haze and
clouds, it was difficult to identify these with names. The trek leader
identified them for us as, Swargrohini, Bunderpoonch, and Kalanag etc. The camp
was a pretty site, with snow all around. Following lunch, people got on to
their own devices. In no time, there was a snowman erected giving all of us
ample opportunity for photographs and selfies. My anxiety levels had starting
increasing. The next day’s ascent to the peak of Kedarkantha was going to be a
steep one, in freezing conditions on snow-covered treks. I was worried about my
fitness, capacity to tolerate low temperatures, and had fear of slipping on
snow trek or frozen ice. Arjun Majumdar’s video on how to layer ourselves in
low temperatures, Kush’s selection of right gear and wear, Harshit’s (trek
leader) assurances to be by my side all the way up, and other members’
enthusiasm and encouragement was much helpful in keeping my morale high. With
the sun setting, the mercury started falling down rapidly, and many of us were
losing our appetite. But it was essential to keep ourselves well nourished and
hydrated. Fortunately, I was drinking enough water, keeping away fatigue as
well as other problems of high altitude. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">The night was
cold, but the tents and the sleeping bags, being of good quality, were able to
keep us warm in sub-zero temperatures. But it was difficult to sleep soundly. After
tossing and turning, I woke up very early to get ready for the challenging yet
most exciting day of the trek. We were to trek for 3-4 hours to reach the
summit at 12500 ft. One wanted to enjoy the rising sun and sun-basked peaks in
front, but I was concentrating in maintaining my pace. The peak where we were
to ascend appeared so distant, testing my resolve time and again to walk.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">The soft snow
covered trek was now hard ice, taking each step became an effort. In spite of
frequent temptation to stop and rest, I resisted; that would have meant delay
as well as breaking the rhythm. Kush was in front, but keeping an eye on me all
the time. He kept on encouraging and goading me to push myself. What a relief
it was when at some distance I saw our batch mates assembled on a small flat
area at the top, excitedly making noise like school kids during their lunch
break. What an exhilaration it was when I joined them at the top. It was an
unbelievable feeling of excitement, relief, and elation. When Kush hugged me, I
was overwhelmed with emotion. On the top, there was Lord Shiva’s temple. We all
bowed down to pray.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">Even when I
had reached the top, it was an humbling experience. As I had written in my
earlier post…<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">Coming down
was easy and fun. Now we were descending down on the southern ridge, which was
heavily covered with soft snow. We discovered very soon that sliding down on
the snow was the best and fun filled exercise. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">We were to
reach Sankari via Hargaon, where we stopped for a night. Just before Sankari,
when I was to take a trail out of so many going down, I heard a melodious voice
cautioning me not to take that trail since trekkers often fell down there. This
young girl was coming from her orchard nearby bringing some fruit. I was
overjoyed when she offered me a kiwi. I did not know kiwi was grown there. I
eagerly peeled and ate it. And I can vouch, never in my life had I tasted a
more delicious fruit of kiwi. She disclosed that she would study to become a
doctor; I wished her well, and thought if somewhere down the line we would be
working together. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">A few words
about my batch mates. I had spent some enjoyable time with these young guys
during this trek. Many of them, Sunil, Rishab, Gaurav, Utsav, and Ashish had encyclopaedic
knowledge about computers, smart phones and mobile apps. Some knew all about
movies, whether Hollywood or Bollywood. Milind Tambe, a naval architect, was in
profession of rescuing stranded ships in the ocean. He could also give a tip or
two on photography as well. He has promised to take me along when he goes for
his next rescue operation. I hope he remembers it. Sunil Chauhan could
patiently wait for his panoramic shots and night photography. If you cared to
ask, he would teach you as well. Bengaluru group was a big group, always
willing to help others. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; line-height: 150%;">On our last
evening of the trek at Sankari was of sharing our experiences and thanksgiving.
I had a long list of people to thank: to name a few, the Indiahikes team, trek
leader Harshit Patel, Sarvan and Tarpan, all the kitchen and housekeeping team,
the fellow trekkers, and many others. I shared with them a story of fish and
shark. How the presence of shark in ocean or fish tank is crucial to keep fish
alert and active. We all should always have a challenge before us. It acts as a
huge motivating force to keeps us productive, innovative, and full of life.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">Kushagra had
been a constant guide before and throughout the trek. On return, he posted the
following lines on his facebook page, the best lines of this trek, </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">“</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #141823; line-height: 150%;">As a young boy this man took me up on my first
trek up the majestic Himalayas leaving me with a deep lasting love for the
outdoors. This week, twenty-five years later, he and I went back for a winter
trek in Uttarakhand to climb up the beautiful Kedarkantha. As he overcame the
bitter cold and severe fatigue to bravely surmount the last couple of miles to
the summit I realized that I'm still following him trying to be half the man he
is. Dad you will always be my hero. Love you. </span></i><a href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/himalayas?source=feed_text&story_id=559806230860469"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #627aad; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">#</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #3b5998; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">Himalayas</span></i></a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #141823; line-height: 150%;"> </span></i><a href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/family?source=feed_text&story_id=559806230860469"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #627aad; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">#</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #3b5998; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">family</span></i></a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #141823; line-height: 150%;"> </span></i><a href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/climbing?source=feed_text&story_id=559806230860469"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #627aad; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">#</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #3b5998; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">climbing</span></i></a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #141823; line-height: 150%;"> </span></i><a href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/trekking?source=feed_text&story_id=559806230860469"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #627aad; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">#</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #3b5998; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">trekking</span></i></a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #141823; line-height: 150%;"> </span></i><a href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/india?source=feed_text&story_id=559806230860469"><span style="color: windowtext; text-decoration: none; text-underline: none;"></span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #627aad; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">#</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #3b5998; line-height: 150%; text-decoration: none;">India</span></i></a><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-82148222649343197092016-01-23T12:16:00.000+05:302016-01-23T12:16:42.178+05:30Kashmir - a personal narrative<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">I am writing this from Srinagar
Airport, on the last day of my 3-day visit. I returned to Kashmir after 12
years. My last visit was here in 2003, when Vasuman and I drove down from Leh
to Srinagar via Kargil, Dras and the treacherous Zozilla pass. That visit to
Leh was incredible in many ways. We had (Chitra with us) travelled from Manali
to Leh by rickety public transport bus. But that was not the most painful part
of our journey. From a height of 6500 ft we had climbed to Sarchu at 15000 ft
on the same day, giving ourselves practically no time to acclimatize to high
altitude. All three of us were suffering from headache, lack of appetite and
feeling nauseous, and cold, but Chitra faced the brunt. She was so miserable
that she was willing to dictate her will, only that I had no strength left to
take down the notes. Next day, we crossed the second highest motorable pass,
Tangri La at 17500 ft, when even Vasu and I wanted desperately the ordeal to be
over, such a splitting headache we had. But soon after crossing, we started
descending down, and things started improving, but leaving us totally drained.
It was only when we sighted the mighty Indus river (Sindhu) that we had a sense
of exhilaration, with fatigue also then retreating. At the crossing, we could
even enjoy our cup of tea, with what else but ‘samosa’. But I must reiterate
that journey was a new experience in our Himalayan travels. Nowhere in
Himalayas, you get to see such changing landscape. From the lush green pine
forests to bushes to green meadows, then to the naked mountains, with not even
a blade of grass. And the mountains changing so many colours, I now cannot
recall all. After staying at Leh, Chitra refused to go with us to Srinagar by
road, and preferred to return to Delhi by air. But she was a sport in
accompanying us to Khardung La at 18500 ft, the highest motorable road in the
world.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">Vasu and I carried on to
Srinagar by road via Batalik sector, Dras and Kargil. The Kargil war had taken
place only four years ago, and we saw huge army presence and big convoys of
armored vehicles. We also saw the famous Tiger hill, and experienced a strange
feeling when we stayed overnight at Kargil.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">2003 was the year, when Kashmir
valley was experiencing its first rush of tourists after a gap of many years.
The hotels, guest houses, house boats, markets, restaurants, places of tourist
interests were full of people from the plains. And we had to wait for long time
at STD booths, whenever we wanted to have a long distance call. Kashmir at that
time perhaps had no mobile connectivity. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">Over the years, since the start
of militancy and ‘liberation movement’ in Kashmir, I have heard many
intellectuals, socialists and opinion makers advocating, ‘let the Kashmiris
decide, whether they wish to remain with India, or go with Pakistan, or have
fully independent state’. Many times I too felt that way. However, after my
visit to Kashmir in 2003 and savoring the incredible beauty of its landscape
and warmth of people, I now know that we cannot afford the loss of Kashmir. We
cannot separate ourselves from Kashmir.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">I found this time a marked
change among the people in Srinagar from the time of 2003. There was free
movement of people everywhere and all the time. There was no obvious army presence
in the civilian areas. There were no road barriers or security checks of
vehicles etc. Even at late night, the vehicles and people, including women,
were moving around freely. However, the floods (sailaab) of last year have
taken a heavy toll on the city. Most of the city looks weary, old and
colorless. The entire city is in need of major repairs and renovation work. It
is here that people are bitter of government’s sloppiness and lack of serious
intent on improving the lot of citizens. The relief has not reached needy
people, while government says it has spent 1500 crores. It does not require an
intelligent guess to know where the money has gone. They are angry over the
previous chief minister, who just sat like a nincompoop doing nothing, literally
like the proverbial Nero who sat twiddling thumbs while Rome was burning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">The present government keeps on
lamenting about lack of ‘central assistance’ for all its incompetence,
inefficiency, and corruption. PM Modi had visited Srinagar soon after sailaab and
had assured people of ‘achhe din’ and ‘parivartan’, but nothing has been
visible on the ground. The people are angry and bitter. Manjoor, who was
chaperoning me around, sums it up differently, “this is all ‘Allah ka kahar’,
Kashmiris are paying for their own sins; first, they suffered the wrath of
militancy, and now this sailaab”. He says, ‘Kashmiris have become lazy and
corrupt; they are entrusting all work to the Bihari migrants, and have
forgotten the virtue of work and labour. He is not wrong about the work force
from Bihar. Most of the hawkers, vendors, and unskilled, semi-skilled and
skilled workers are now from Bihar. Even for their traditional and unparalleled
skill in shawl and carpet weaving, they are employing outside labour. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">This time I found people much
relaxed; they were open about talking of so many of contentious issues. Even if
many people were driven by an ideology, they could talk about all the ill
effects of militancy of nearly three decades, that militants are nothing but
social outcasts, thugs and interested only in making money, and abusing
firepower and women. They also state that Kashmir cannot afford to go with a
failed state that Pakistan is; it cannot demand a fully autonomous and
independent status, when it is surrounded by three nuclear powers. They accept
that Kashmir’s destiny is linked with India only.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">In last few years, the number of
vehicles have grown beyond the capacity of roads. New roads and alternate
routes do not exist. A welcome change, however, is the number of women drivers
on cars as well as scooty.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">One observation has been
constant in all my visits to Kashmir, that is, all the governments without
exception, have done precious little about the development of Kashmir. We do
not tire ourselves of comparing Kashmir with Switzerland, or that ‘if there is
a heaven on Earth, it is here, here, and here only’, but what a state we have
reduced it to. The state of roads, infrastructure, developmental projects, all
are as bad as they were in my earlier visit in 1987. On the name of
development, Kashmir has only unplanned hotels and guesthouses and real state
to show.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;">During the Mughal period
in particular, Emperor Jahangir and his wife Nur Jahan were so enamoured of
Kashmir that during summer they moved to Srinagar with their full court
entourage from </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delhi" target="_blank" title="Delhi"><span style="color: #0b0080; line-height: 115%; text-decoration: none;">Delhi</span></a><span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;"> at least 13 times.
Shalimar Bagh was their imperial summer residence and the Royal Court. They
crossed the arduous snowy passes of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pir_Panjal" target="_blank" title="Pir Panjal"><span style="color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;">Pir Panjal</span></a> mountain range on elephants to reach Srinagar.
The black pavilion built during the early part of Jahangir's reign in the top
terrace of the Shalimar Bagh, has the famous inscription in </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persian_Language" target="_blank" title="Persian Language"><span style="color: #0b0080; line-height: 115%; text-decoration: none;">Persian</span></a><span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;">, which says:</span><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;">Agar Firdaus bar rōy-e zamin
ast, hamin ast-o hamin ast-o hamin ast</span></i><span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;">.</span><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">This is a couplet by
the </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persia" target="_blank" title="Persia"><span style="color: windowtext; line-height: 115%; text-decoration: none;">Persian</span></a><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"> poet </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amir_Khusrau" target="_blank" title="Amir Khusrau"><span style="color: windowtext; line-height: 115%; text-decoration: none;">Amir Khusrau</span></a><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;">,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 6.0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;">Translated to </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Language" target="_blank" title="English Language"><span style="color: #0b0080; line-height: 115%; text-decoration: none;">English</span></a><span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;">, it means, ‘If there is a
paradise on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here’.</span><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 6.0pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="color: #252525; line-height: 115%;">It is also mentioned
that when Jahangir was asked on his death bed about his cherished desire he is
credited to have said, ‘Kashmir, the rest is worthless.’</span></div>
</div>
Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-56791969520385998212015-06-28T21:31:00.000+05:302015-06-28T21:31:03.282+05:30THE GORKHA EARTHQUAKE - TRAGEDY STRIKES HIMALAYAN NATION OF NEPAL<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Gorkha Earthquake : a personal
narrative<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">“Please
return to your seats and fasten your seat belts; we are shortly going to land
in Kathmandu; the local time is 2.45 pm, and the temperature is 25 Celsius”.
The shrill voice of the airhostess woke me up from my reverie. I was returning
to Kathmandu after a year, and for the first time after the devastating
earthquake of 25<sup>th</sup> April. Ever since I visited Kathmandu for the
first time in 1995, I fell in love with Nepal and its people. And this love,
having been cemented with my stay in Dharan, 1997-1999, has grown over the
years. During my short journey from Delhi to Kathmandu, I could not help but
thinking with trepidations that in what shape would I find Kathmandu and its
people. Though I remained in regular touch with my acquaintances in Kathmandu
and Dharan to know their welfare, I knew it would be a different ballgame to
see things first hand. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">From
the window of the aircraft I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the mighty
Himalayas, but was disappointed due to the cloud cover. During the check-in at
the Delhi airport, I was surprised when the check-in agent asked me if I had
any preference for the seat. That meant the flight was not full. Usually
Delhi-Kathmandu flights are always full, so one cannot get a seat of choice if
not already reserved on web check-in. I always prefer a window seat on the left
side, since it allows one to have a peek at the Himalayas. Predictably, a
number of seats were not occupied. Tourists are avoiding going there, and for
trekkers it has been a big disappointment, since all the popular treks are
closed down due to massive landslides that had claimed lives of so many Sherpas
and the trekkers. From the aircraft, I could only see buildings after
buildings. Each successive year, I find the green cover of the valley shrinking
in geometric proportion. The baggage area of the Kathmandu airport had stacks
of relief material all over. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">After
I checked in a hotel in the Thamel, I went for a walk in the area. Thamel is
usually a lively area with mostly white tourists (for Indian tourists, the favorite
spots remain Pashupatinath temple, casinos, and various malls and shopping
areas). The shopping in Thamel is mostly of the trekking gear, and it is
littered with restaurants serving cuisines of every part of the world. It also
has some very good bakeries, and my love for apple pie began here only. In a decade
or so, an additional ‘attraction’ that has been added here is of ‘dance bars’
and ‘massage parlours’. It was disappointing to see the area bereft of its
usual crowd. There were virtually no tourists in any of the shops. The eateries
wore a deserted look. ‘Hot Bread’, which usually would sell its unsold items of
the day at 50% rates at 9.30 pm, was doing so at 8.30 pm. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Prof
Saroj Ojha, head, Dept of Psychiatry at the Institute of Medicine, Kathmandu
visited me at my hotel with his wife. And after preliminaries, the talk soon
shifted to the ‘Gorkha earthquake’. Listen to Prof Ojha in his own words, “We
were having lunch with my aged mother and two kids, it being the Saturday, and
suddenly felt as if our chairs and the table were pushed by a train engine with
a deafening roar. After a momentary hesitation, we realized it was an
earthquake, and went underneath the dining table, hoping it would be over
within seconds. But the seconds stretched to never ending time. I felt we were
pushed and pulled simultaneously in opposite directions, with a force over
which we had no control. I was stunned into total silence, remained huddled
underneath the table, clutching my two children, while my wife and mother kept
chanting prayers all the time. All I could think was death, death, and death;
all other thoughts had deserted me; I could not even frame my parting words to
my family. Once the violent jerks stopped, it took us a few minutes more to
come from underneath the table, which seemed to be providing some security, and
we immediately rushed outside into the open area, which seemed to be the safest
place on entire Earth. The scene outside was chaotic; no building had fallen
down, but the entire neighbourhood had come outside; people were crying, even
when none seemed to have died there, shouting, screaming, whispering, some were
in total shock; people rushed to me for advice as to what they should do now.
What could I tell them; I was as confused as they were. I was totally
paralysed, not knowing what to do, should we go back inside, or just run away
somewhere. I wanted some divine intervention to suggest to me the safest place
on the Earth, where I could head to with my family.” Prof Ojha decided to shift
his family to his office in the Institute of Medicine, where he lived with his
family for the next one month. It seemed to be the most convenient place; besides
his own, IOM is working place for Mrs Ojha too, who is gynaecologist there.
Food was available in many canteens within the hospital compound, or from many
eateries in the vicinity. In case of any emergency, medical help was available
24 hours. For next few weeks, Prof Saroj Ojha remained in great demand with the
TV channels and print media for his advice to people on what should they
anticipate, and how they should look after their emotional health, but ‘I
myself remained a bundle of nerves within myself; I did not know whom to turn
to for advice’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Sudhir
K Khandelwal<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Despatch
from Kathmandu<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">26
June 2015<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-23232662116619790922015-06-28T20:59:00.003+05:302015-06-28T20:59:39.214+05:30THE REEL GAP<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
PORTRAYAL OF MENTAL ILLNESSES IN HINDI FILMS<br />
<br />
http://epaper.indianexpress.com/514627/Indian-Express/05-June-2015#page/13<br />
<br />
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-60534148073934391162015-01-29T23:47:00.003+05:302015-05-08T22:09:47.310+05:30HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF RUBY ANNIVERSARY<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I
have attended many silver jubilee anniversaries, celebrated golden jubilee
marriage anniversary of my parents, and of course participated in many first
birthdays, and first anniversaries, but ruby anniversary? I had never attended
or even heard of a ruby anniversary of anyone’s birthday or marriage being
celebrated. And celebrating Ruby anniversary of a college batch? But that
exactly was we bargained for, to celebrate Ruby anniversary of our MAMC batch
1970-74, when during our monthly kitty lunch in December 2013 at the Kwality
restaurant, someone reminded that in 2014 we would complete 40 years of our
batch. You have to attend one of these lunches to realize what this lunch
stands for. For those 90-120 minutes once in a month, we forget who is
respected GP in one’s locality, or an accomplished and much sought after
consultant, or professor of a premier institution, or an office bearer of a
state or national association, or a judge in the consumer redressal forum. We
all are there naked (please, don’t take it literally), with no barriers or
inhibitions of language or mannerism, and telling and retelling all kinds of jokes,
throwing ridiculous ideas and suggestions up in the air, and shooting there
only. It is as if for those many minutes we go back in time every month. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">However,
this time when someone threw up a suggestion of celebrating 40 years of our
batch in 2014, people listened seriously. Silver jubilee celebrations had gone
back into time, the memories of which were already getting blurred, and golden
jubilee was still 10 years away. Who knows what tricks time would play over
next 10 years with our health, memory, or even life? When an idea is within the
hearing range of Upendra Gami, you better be serious about it, because he will
not only make a blueprint for its execution, but would form a team, sell the
idea to others, motivate them to join, and would get down to the drawing board
for a perfect finale. That was what he did to this idea too. It is not that
there were no misgivings; Seekar said in his characteristic style, “naa tel naa
kadhai, banane chale mithai”; in fact, he wrote a cheque writing this phrase
and sent it to Gami. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But
the response, soon after the first email hit the sent button, was overwhelming,
more so from our NRI batchmates. So many of them evinced interest, and finally
made it too. If Upen et al were working here for the success of the reunion (it
was christened Ruby Reunion), Ajit Nagra took the reins for its US operations. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What
is to be appreciated, is the perseverance of the team against all odds:
batchmates not responding to emails on time, not giving final commitment about
attending, not being prompt in coughing up their share of contribution etc. But
the team continued to update all those who had expressed interest about the
selection of the resort, arrangements for commuting to the venue, detailed
programme of activities planned during the stay there. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chitra
suggested the idea of having a dinner on the 18<sup>th</sup> December as a
prelude to the Reunion. That would prepare the batchmates for the emotional
reunion that was to unfold on 21-22 December. Batchmates responded in good
numbers braving Delhi’s cold and traffic jams, setting the ball roll for the
grand finale. As Upen later said, ‘well begun is half done’. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Descriptive
epidemiology: finally, 113 people checked into the Best Western Country Club on
the morning of 21<sup>st</sup> December 2014. 65 of these were batchmates from
1970-74 batch, 45 were the spouses of these batchmates, 3 were the daughters of
this batch. 47 of these 113 came from overseas, 13 from UK, 2 from Switzerland,
and the rest from US. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Meeting
many of these batchmates after 40 long years were emotionally charged moments. The
batchmates, who had never made any ETEC (eye to eye contact) during their stay
at the college, or would not touch the other with a pole, were now greeting
others with warm embraces and tight clasping of hands. Every moment was like a photo
opportunity, and people obliged one another with photographs multiple times. Ajit
Nagra smilingly and untiringly obliged everyone taking multiple shots till the
right emotion was captured. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chitra,
Tripat, and Reenu (Mrs Ajit Nagra) had their own reunion; they are school
batchmates from Presentation Convent, Delhi.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Poonam
et al planned the cultural evenings quite imaginatively. There were some
discoveries too. Vimal Sodhi could very well stand up as a historian and bring
out old memories from the archive. Ashok Khurana would do very well as stage
comedian. Rakesh Sood is not far behind as an improptu comedian, and has a
great talent for photography. He would take pains while photographing even a
small group, arranging people and the background, adjusting his own posture,
and would explain later the composition and texture of the photograph. Ajit Nagra
is already perhaps a professional photographer (his photographic gear suggests
that); he not only talks about the shutter or aperture, but also of white
balance and the compensation, while composing a photo. He takes great pains for
a photo to come just right. I am thinking seriously of doing an internship with
them (Ajit and Rakesh, please offer a scholarship and free board; your student
won’t disappoint you). <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We
had very interesting meeting with Sudha Jain Khandelwal and her husband Amar
Khandelwal. As you would probably know, Khandelwals are a small group of Vaish
(baniya) community (unlike Agrawals, which is a very large group), and it is
very unlikely to have two khandelwals who do not have some common relatives.
And when we were chatting with them, very interesting facts emerged about some
common relatives. To cut a long story short, Sudha Jain Khandelwal seemed to
develop some identity crisis after some revelations. She cannot decide whether
she is my batchmate, or Chitra’s aunt or grandaunt! I do not know how to help
her; I usually handle adolescents or young adults if they are going through
identity crisis, but have never handled a senior citizen with such a crisis. I
am firm believer in this world being very small; in fact wrote a small piece
‘It is a small small small world’ some years ago, and meeting with Sudha and
Amar bhai proved it once again. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My
special tributes to the spouses of our batchmates for being so generous in
taking out time for indulging their better halves. They participated in all
activities (singing, dancing, mixing and frolicking with others) with no
reservations, and were complimentary to their partners. Like one said, “Many
years ago I made a very wise decision in my marriage; now I live off of my
wife’s income”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Batchmates were overwhelmed by the warmth and
bonhomie that came so spontaneously. They were effusive in complimenting the
team for its organizing this event.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">Titiksha summed it up so well, “</span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; line-height: 150%;">Each detail looked into, every one made to
feel special & precious, death dealt with delicacy & respect shows the
compassionate loving hearts & selfless efforts of all the core group
members of 74 batch who could make it possible because of the loving
support of their spouses & family. We feel very fortunate to
be a part of this spirited, unique group”.</span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><o:p></o:p></span></i></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This
reunion took place 15 years after the last, which was the silver jubilee
reunion. Someone has already suggested that next one should be earlier this
time, after 5 years. Let us hope, we meet up again after 5 years in greater
numbers. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Till
that time, enjoy fresh air, lot of laughters, plenty of exercises, and frequent
social interactions. That will keep the batteries charged. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cheers<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sudhir
Khandelwal<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">24/12/2014<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-42369241269014410892014-12-03T21:09:00.002+05:302014-12-05T21:42:50.626+05:30Chopta - Tungnath - Chandrashila Trek<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Five days of holidays in the
beginning of October was god-sent for many people to make a beeline into their
favourite destinations; we too planned to make best of this golden opportunity,
since it does not happen very often that one gets constellation of holidays
falling together. If I have to plan, what better place than go for a quick
visit to the Himalayas in Uttarakhand. Chopta and Tungnath had been in my mind
for a long time. I made enquiries and found this was a doable trip in five
days. Vasu, after some hesitation, agreed to accompany me, and then I asked
Shariff, who approved the plan (of course, after consulting Malini) without
hestitation. What bothered me was the road condition. After last year’s
devastation due to fury of floods in Uttarakhand, esp, in the region of
Kedarnath, I was a little wary, since Chopta and Tungnath fall in the close
vicinity of Kedarnath; afterall, Tungnath is one of five Kedar temples. I
contacted GMVN’s offices in Rishikesh and other places to get the updates. They
all assured me that people were going regulary to Kedarnath and other dhams
(Badrinath, Gangotri and Yamunotri), and in the first week of October, with
rains almost stopping, there was no risk of fresh landslide. I must say one
thing about the GMVN, they are sure to respond once you ring them up. Finally I
could also track one medical officer from Haldwani, who had just returned from Kedarnath
after spending some time in a medical camp. He confirmed roads were decent
enough, and some rough patches here and there were part of the journey in the
mountains. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">The route to
Chopta-Tungnath-Chadrshila goes like this:
Delhi-Haridwar-Rishikesh-Devprayag-Shrinagar-Rudraprayag-Ukhimath-Chopta. It is
the same route till Rudrapryag that goes further to Joshimath, Govind-ghat (for
trek to Valley of Flowers and Hemkunt Sahib) and then Badrinath. At
Rudraprayag, you take a left U-turn to go towards Kedarnath, and before
Guptkashi, turn towards Ukhimath and Chopta. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Something about the legend of
‘Panch-Kedar’, since there are five Kedar (Lord Shiv) temples in that region:
Kedarnath, Tungnath, Madhyamaheshwar, Rudranath and Kalpeshwar. The legend goes
like this: after the Mahabharat war, Pandav brothers felt extreme remorse and
guilt over the kilings of their own brothers and other kinsmen, Guru, and many
great warriors. They were advised to seek penance from Lord Shiv, who was very
angry with them and unforgiving. In their quest, they reached Mount Kailash,
but Shiv disappeared from there. They could trace him to Garhwal Himalayas,
where to dodge them, Shiv assumes the form of a male buffalow and joins a herd.
Pandav brothers recognize him and try to capture him, but Shiv disintegrates
himself in five parts, but Pandavs catch hold of his back and worship him for
penance. Shiv is satisfied with their devotion and repentence, and finally
grants them pardon. Each temple signifies one of the five body parts. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">On our first day, we left home after
doing Durga-ashtami puja, since it was Durga Ashtami that day. We aimed to
reach Shrinagar on our first day, though I was a bit apprehensive about the
road condition after Rishikesh when hills begin. But the problem was exiting
NCR only. It took nearly two hours to cross Ghaziabad. At Khatauli, we stopped
for tea; the well-known Chital Grand does not exist anymore at its original
site. It was known for its efficiency, standard of cleanliness, and very rich
greenery and landscape. We went to one of its clones, which has a long way to
go to come near Chital. We did not stop at Haridwar, as we wanted to reach our
next destination on time. We crossed Shivpuri, known for river rafting, where
the entire stretch was full of parked cars. The Dilliwalas had made good use of
this long weekend; I cannot complain, we had done the same. The road condition
was not as bad as I had feared except for some stretches. We thought of Devprayag
for our overnight stay, but then Shrinagar was not far off, so we decided to
continue. We had covered almost 340 km. Shrinagar is an important halt on this
route for going to Kedarnath (via Rudraprayag), Hemkunt Sahib and Valley of
Flowers, and Badrinath (via Joshimath). It is home to the Garhwal University
and now has a medical college too. One could still see some signs of fury of
floods last year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">On second day, we had planned to reach
Chopta via Rudraprayag, Agustmuni and Ukhimath at a distance of 60 km. We had
been recommended to stay at Syalsur guest house of the GMVN for the beauty of
all the landscape around it. However, this guest house was washed away in last
year’s floods, and the repair/construction was not yet complete. On this
stretch, new road has been laid, and the drive was a pleasure, with a fantastic
view of moutnains and tall trees all around. The river, terraced fields and mountain
peaks made all the efforts worthwhile. The air was refreshing, and I inhaled
deeply to clear my clogged alveoli of all the pollutants accumulated over last
few months in Delhi. At Duggalbitta, a few kilometers before Chopta, we got
down from our vehicle to stretch our legs and give ourselves some practice to
walk at an altitude of 9000 ft in preparation for tomorrow’s trek, which was to
take us to 13,500 ft. From Duggalbitta to Chopta via Baniyakund, the entire
area is a huge meadow (bugyal), and offers huge opportunity for camping. Now a
days a number of corporates organize for their young executives such camps
where they get some exposure to excitement of adventure and group living. The
village of Chopta is spread over a largish area and is sparsely populated. The
centre of the village, where all the tourists assemble, is a stretch of less
than 1 km with eating and staying places located on either side of the road. At
this time, the entire stretch was jam packed with cars and motorcycles, and the
eating places were full of noisy tourists. Majority of the tourists were young
people, and it seemed as if the profile of pilgrims had changed from elderly
group to younger crowd. It looked like as if the younger lot had descended (or
ascended) to Chopta instead to a mall. Since the staying places were limited,
we hurried to book our rooms before settling down to anythingelse. The evening
brought sudden fall in the temperature, and with limited lighting options,
tourists and pilgrims had to retire early into their beds. At dinner we met
with a very interesting couple from, wherelse, but Kolkata. The gentleman had
almost taken upon himself the task of popularizing soya in India almost with a
missionary zeal. He explained to us in great details how and in what form soya
has to be consumed to be useful to human system. We at our home consume soya by
mixing soya flour in wheat flour, but that is not the best way. Could not sleep
very well, may be because of altitude, or due to anxiety of next day’s trek. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">We had planned to stay overnight at
Tungnath for our 3<sup>rd</sup> night’s stay and tried to book some room in
advance; however, we were told all the accommodation were taken up already, and
the place was looking more like a railway platform. In the morning, we left
early; we were to walk about 4 km and gain a height to nearly 3500 ft, making
it a steep climb. I gave myself 3 hrs for this trek; I was a bit anxious, so
maintained a slow but steady rhythm for my climb. The tree line was thinning all
the way up; there were pine, oak, rhodendrone and birch trees. But all
disappeared as we gained height. It was cloudy, so could not have a clear view
of the peaks. We reached within time; and after having darshan, we headed for
Chandrashila peak at a height of 13,500 ft. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">People usually go to Chandrashila
early in the morning for a sunrise, when all the peaks bask in the golden sun.
One can have a 270 degree view all around. But it was a cloudy day since early
morning, so did not have a clear view of the peaks.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">After climbing down, we headed for
Ukhimath, where we had decided to stay overnight. I had already tried the GMVN
guest house telephonically, and there was no vacancy. We tried the PWD guest
house; mostly these are located at a place from where one can see a good view of
the landscape, and secondly they charge very reasonable rates. At Ukhimath, all
the rooms were vacant, but the caretaker was one of the laziest persons around,
and when we saw the condition of one room, we could not believe one could
maintain a room in such a filthy condition. It appeared straight from a horror
movie. But we got good rooms in a private hotel, which was situated on main
road. The rooms were clean, nice beds, and running hot water. Ukhimath is a small
town with Shri Omkarnath temple where Bhagwan Kedarnath makes a temporary abode
when the Kedarnath shrine closes on the Diwali day for the winter season. It is
in Ukhimath that the Lord is worshipped through the winters. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Next day after a good night rest and
hot water bath and a breakfast of hot puri-aloo subji, we headed for Devria
Taal. We parked our car at Sari village, from where it is a moderately steep
trek of about 3 km. The trek passes through a temple and dense forest. The lake
is famous for its view and the reflections of sunset and surrounding peaks like
Chowkhambha. There is tented accommodation available, and if one is inclined,
it is a quiet and serene place for overnight stay. We spent couple of hours
amidst a noisy group of tourists, who were neither aware of PM’s appeal of
‘swachch Bharat’, nor respectful to the sanctity of Himalayas. We left for
Rishikesh and reached there soon after sunset. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Fifth day was our last day of
journey. We headed for home, but not before taking a dip in the Ganga. We were
happy we could accomplish a visit to Chopta, Tungnath and Chandrashila in the
given time. This is again one of the many destinations in the Himalayas where one
would like to go again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">Some important telephone numbers:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">GMVN Delhi – 011-23326620<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">GMVN Rishikesh – 0135-2431793<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">GMVN Dehradun – 0135-2740896<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">GMVN Joshimath – 01389-222118<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;">GMVN Badrinath – 01381-222212<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-48946318180653133372014-07-09T03:16:00.000+05:302014-07-09T03:42:00.345+05:30SUMMER VISITORS<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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unusually cool for the month of April. It had been heavenly to have early
morning tea outside in the back courtyard of our house. We are blessed in
having a few trees around our house. In between the silk cotton tree (semul)
and drum stick tree, you can easily spot at least 15 species of birds on your
lucky day. Thus, we have usual birds like sparrow, myna, brahminy myna, dove,
blue rock pigeon, wood pigeons, rosy pastors, wabblers, sun bird, robins,
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for face presentation; the flock of noisy rosy pastors was in the process of
leaving; white-cheek bulbul, kingfishers,
and grey hornbills were also making occasional appearance; every morning tree
pie is trying to imitate other birds; barbets, large and small, were heard more
often than seen with their continuous, monotonous ‘thuk…thuk…’. We do not have
roosters around us, but koel has assumed its function with its shrill call
rising in crescendo and then suddenly going quiet. Unfailingly, it gives its
call at 4 am, and sometimes at 3! Where was it all throughout the winter? Soon
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<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 14pt; font-weight: normal; line-height: 150%;">Gone winters, the trees have become mad house of activities with birds
of all color and hues, shapes and sizes. The mornings occupy them with their
frantic search for food and building material. All through the winter, they had
gone on sabbatical, and now they have made their appearance to reclaim their
rightful place among trees and bushes. The insects, which had remained
conspicuous with their absence, have suddenly become visible almost in
sacrificial mood, allowing us to witness hide and seek with birds, who dart
down from some invisible spot in the tree to hunt them and insects or moths
scurrying in the grass or fallen leaves for their lives.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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pleasant any longer, mosquitoes are perhaps envious of seeing us enjoying our
morning tea, and won’t let a single second pass without their sting hitting us
at some unreachable spot of the body, but the call of the birds is still
fascinating making us endure all the oppression of heat and mosquito bite.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-3554584249181950072014-06-28T17:50:00.002+05:302014-06-28T17:50:43.536+05:30ALMA-ATA IS NOW ALMATY<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Kazakhstan Diary</b></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p><b>Day
1; Almaty, Kazakhstan: 07/06/2014</b></div>
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That
we would be visiting a new city in a new country, I had not planned it. I had
been thinking for some time to visit Uzbekistan (if I was to visit any of the
CIS countries, other than Russia) for its sheer historical significance for
India. Samarkand and Bukhara had been important cities on the silk route, and
Mughals had originated from here. But we had not thought of Almaty in Kazakhstan,
and that too this year. But it was all made possible by Shammi and Sonia, and
their good friend, Rakesh Gaur, who has been living and working in Almaty for
more than 8 years. To come to think of it, Almaty is only 3 hrs away from
Delhi, and if you take the distance as crow flies, it is 1600 km! Return air
fare @ Rs 25K is less than what you pay for your flight to Bengaluru or
Chennai. The only hitch in it not being a tourist destination is that it does
not welcome tourists. Obtaining tourist visa is arduous, and it is possible
only through an agent, or if someone living in Kazakhstan arranges one for you.
Anyway, we have arrived here, and have immediately fallen in love with this
city; but then it is not unusual, for me, it is ‘love at first sight’ for any
place outside Delhi. For accommodation, we have a luxury with a fantastic view
from our 19<sup>th</sup> floor apartment. For weather, you couldn’t ask for
more; from 46 C of Delhi’s scorching temperature to a heavenly 24 C in Almaty.
And dinner at an Uzbek restaurant with traditional dresses, vodka, and Uzbek
bread and live performance with pretty artists, and a music which is so close
to our folk music. One could not have asked for a better beginning of a holiday
week.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Day
2; Almaty, Kazakhstan: 08/07/2014</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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The
day started really very early; I was missing my pillow and uneven mattress back
home. But then, 4.30 am, the sun was already on its job. But I did not mind,
the view from the drawing room window was fantastic with 5 layers of hills
right before the eyes; slopes with houses, tree line, then pasture land, and
finally mountains with snow. What could you ask for more, with top layer of
snow changing its colour from golden to silver with the rising sun? <o:p></o:p></div>
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We
have brought so much food from Delhi as if we were going to some famine-struck
country. So had ‘dalia’ and masala tea for breakfast, and to top that ‘panjiri
wale laddu’! <o:p></o:p></div>
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Rakesh
came punctually at 10, and had organized the day meticulously for us to take us
to various tourist attractions. The day began with a visit to a school,
‘Miras’; the name perhaps is derived from the ‘Midas touch’. It has 400
students, but has facilities and area size as if it is meant for 40 thousand.
Sandeep is the physical and sports trainer their. Today being Sunday, the school
wore a deserted look, but seeing the young kids practicing for their Salsa
competition made our day. It was so infectious, I felt like jumping into the
ring. I bet they would have welcomed me. We drove 20 km outside the city to
reach the foothills for doing an easy trek, but then it started raining making
walking on boulders difficult. But that did not deter us having our share of
vodka; it was quite a sight walking on slippery trek and trying to prevent
spilling our vodka, and saving ourselves from falling down. We took shelter in
a circular tent and had an early lunch of idli-sambar-chutney, and chholey made
by Qasim and Shabana. Can you imagine what it was like having it sitting inside
a tent with rain outside, and mojito (mind you, not virgin) to add to the atmosphere?
The rain, sun, and clouds kept playing hide and seek, but that did not deter us
from visiting Tao resort, and a few other places. With 10 Indians in a group
having two Sikhs was an amusing sight for the locals, many of who wanted to be
photographed with us. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We
returned to our apartment happy and satisfied in time to watch the final of
French Open. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p><b>Day 3; Almaty, Kazakhstan: 09/06/2014</b></div>
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We
had to give our passport to the local immigration department for registering
ourselves. All foreign visitors have to register themselves within 5 days of
their arrival into the country. It was similar to Pakistan, where foreigners
(at least Indians) must report to the local police station within 2 days of
their arrival; however, in our two visits to Pakistan, the consular in New
Delhi Pakistan High Commission was kind enough to grant us exemption from this
ordeal. It took quite a while to complete this formality at Almaty, taking
almost half a day. Rakesh had kindly deputed his staff member, Nishant, to
organize this registration. If our visit to Almaty has been so pleasurable and
totally hassle-free, it is all because of the meticulous arrangement put in by
Rakesh. And Chitra and I are fortunate in having Shammi and Sonia, who have
included us in their visit to this beautiful place. So we had planned to visit
only local shops and the malls. The malls were like any other you see in any
west European city or now in Delhi. These have all the known brand names, so
nothing different.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Hamid
has been our driver and guide. He is graduate, and about to finish his Masters;
he is doing this job because he doesn’t want to be seen as being dependent on
his father, who owns a service garage. He is of Kurd ethnicity, and informs us
that Kurds are not as religious as much traditionalists. Hence, being the only
son of his parents, he must live with them always. The parents will arrange his
marriage, and the education of his future wife is not important, as she is not
going to work outside home. He told us his views about the local politics,
Russians, and Stalin. He is educated and knowledgeable person, but says that
here in Kazakhstan it is not important what you know, but whom do you know. I
wanted to tell him his belief is not different from what we have in India.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Day
4; Almaty, Kazakhstan: 10/06/2014</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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The
day was planned for a visit to the Grand Canyon of Kazakhstan, i.e., Charyn
Canyon, which is about 200 km away from Almaty, located in Charyn National
Park. As is the case with any canyon, there is a river here too at the bottom
of the canyon called Charyn. In size it may be a micro version of the Grand
Canyon in Arizona State of the US, but is no less in grandeur and splendor.
Like any other canyon, it must have been formed by the combined effect of water
(river Charyn), wind, the Sun, and the earthquake. It is said to be a
comparatively younger canyon at about 10-12 million years old. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The
drive from Almaty to the canyon takes more than 3 hours. Though the road was
not bad, but there were many villages en route, where the speed limit was 50 km
till you have crossed it, so that delays you. Our driver was strictly following
speed limit, even if there were no traffic police was in sight. But we were not
complaining; it was so different than what we have back in Delhi, where people
irrespective of their education, occupation or class, take pride in breaking
traffic rules. So we got a peek, though only from a moving vehicle, of the
villages, where the houses appeared to be maintained well, there was no garbage
dumped on the roadside, and no cattle lazing around on the road. There were
very few people visible; but then, Kazakhstan is a big country (9<sup>th</sup>
in the world by area), with a population of approx. 17 million only, with only
6 people per sq km. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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Much
before reaching the canyon, the desert like area begins. The trek to the bottom
starts with a steep descent of about 10 min, but afterwards it is a plain walk
for 3 km before we reached the river. Though the Sun was shining clear and
bright over our head, the breeze at the bottom was cool. And the walk was very
interesting; the water and the wind had worked as master craftsmen to sculpt
the rocks in amazing shapes resembling people of all ages interacting with each
other (did some remind me of Khajuraho!); some rocks looked like an
amphitheatre, or even medieval castles. The sight of the river was very
thrilling, and dipping our feet was so refreshing. There were only a handful of
tourists, and again the site did not have any garbage littered around. The
tourist sites in India are always chaotically crowded with dumps of garbage and
stray dogs. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We
had aloo-parantha for lunch, made and packed by the Kazakh cook of Rakesh. On
our way back we stopped in a village for buying delicious and fresh fruits plucked,
may be, the same day: cherry, apricot, peach, apples etc. But then, Kazakhstan
is a big producer of fruits and vegetables. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Day
5; Almaty, Kazakhstan: 11/06/2014</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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We
started the day with a visit to the Green Bazaar. This is a market famous for
its fresh fruits and vegetables, and other provisions like imported dry fruits
from Iran and other neighbouring countries. And as is usual for any market in
any country, there were many shops selling Chinese wares. Of course, we were
not satisfied with browsing and window shopping, but shopped for varied items.
This was followed by having lunch at Govinda’s, a pure veg restaurant run by
the ISCON society. What did we have? Of course, ‘aloo-parantha’ made in pure
desi ghee (cow’s), perfectly round, and fried golden brown, made by Kazakh
cook. Local girls perfectly attired in sarees served us. ISCON does not have
permission to start a temple in the city, but outside the city, they have an
ashram. This was followed by a visit to Shymbulak Ski Resort, which is
increasing its popularity every year. It has already hosted international
events, and may bid for winter Olympics soon. There is well placed rope way
which takes you to a height of more than ten thousand ft. I am sure it must be
a lot cheaper to ski here than any European resort. However, currently most of
the tourists here are from Russia and other CIS countries. These are all
natural slopes, and very picturesque. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Day
6; Almaty, Kazakhstan: 12/06/2014</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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This
is our last day for going around Almaty; tomorrow (13 June), we go back to
Delhi after a fantastic week of sheer romance with this place. No visit to
Almaty is complete without going to the Charyn Canyon (that we already did),
and the Ile-Alatau National Park, and the Turgen Gorge within it. It is again 2
hrs drive east of Almaty, more than half of the route is the same that we did
for the Canyon. In between, there is a diversion from where the Chinese border
is just 2 hours away. Almaty is the largest and the most developed city of
Kazakhstan, and till 1996, it was the capital; but in view of the close
proximity of Chinese border, the capital shifted to Astana, which has been
developed as a planned city. No one wants to give Chinese any chance or
opportunity to become ambitious. We stopped en route to buy honey from a local
fruit seller. It has become a joke in my family that I am easily lured into
buying honey, as I actually have bought from as far place as Nagaland, or villages
on high altitude of Garhwal, and now Kazakhstan. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Once
the route leaves the main highway to turn to the Turgen Gorge, the landscape
changes dramatically. From a flat land with houses interspersed on both sides,
it became a mild hill drive with expansive green pastures on both sides where
you see herds of cows and horses grazing. Horse is a valuable animal here, for
its meat, and may be for export too for racing and other sports. It was here
that the horse was domesticated during ancient times. The drive was
exhilarating with freshest of breeze and all shades of green. It kept us
reminding us about our drives in Uttarakhand, Himachal, or Kashmir. After
paying a small entry fee, we entered the park area. The Ile-Alatau National
Park is a vast area of virgin and pristine beauty, undisturbed by human
involvement or encroachments. It is home to a large number of birds and
animals, but to witness some of these, you need time, and may need to stay
there over night. I am not sure if there are arrangements for night stay. Since
we had reached there at about 2 pm, most of birds activities had come to a
stop, and I could spot only magpie, common myna, swallow, crows, and vultures;
could not shoot any…with the camera. <o:p></o:p></div>
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There
were two waterfalls; one was 1 km away, and another (bigger and more
beautiful), some 7 km away. We chose to trek to the nearer one, which was again
on a hilly trek. The trek was beautiful with all colours of wild flowers and
trees of many kinds. I could recognize only arecaria, pine, and birch
(bhojpatra, on which our ancient texts have been written; you could spot them
in plenty if you go to Garhwal and Kumaon hills at above 10k feet) too. Though
the waterfall was only 1 km away, but this 1 km would just not end, inspite of all
the beauty of the trek.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So many times, I
have repented on my treks in Garhwal and Kumaon of having asked the locals how
far was the next campsite. And their 30 minutes or ‘just around the next
corner’ never seemed to end. There were many groups of families, which were
picnicking around the riverside. Kazakh people are very fond of picnicking and
barbecuing, which they call as ‘shashlik’. There was a group of noisy and
sprightly school kids who were walking alongside with us. Their laughter and
chatting was adding life to the atmosphere. They were very keen to be
photographed with us, and polish their English. They found Shammi’s turban very
amusing, and he was in great demand for group photographs. Chitra would remind
him again and again to charge a fee, but then Shammi is a great sport, and
would easily oblige them. The waterfall became a popular photographic spot,
with kids getting their ‘selfie’ in all poses and various groups. The water was
cold, and like an elixir to drink, it was pure and had rich minerals from the
hills. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Hamid,
our guide and driver, kept us company and regaled us with many stories about
his Kurd culture. He had earlier told us how his mother has arranged his
marriage; he is getting married on 28 September. Another way is by ‘stealing
wife’. If a boy likes a girl, and girl’s father refuses to oblige his family,
then boy’s family openly threatens to abduct/steal the girl. And they actually
do it, even if it results in blood shed. Sometimes, the girl’s father, if he is
poor and can not afford marriage expenses’, suggests to the boy’s family to
steal his own daughter. In that event, he is obliged not to spend any money on
wedding affairs. Many of the marriage related customs that he described to us,
bore close resemblance to our own ceremonies. <o:p></o:p></div>
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It
was our last day of going around Almaty, and we have been very happy
throughout. Rakesh and team took great pains in making our trip enjoyable and
worthwhile. It would not have been possible without their shouldering it. I
wanted to tip Hamid at the end of the day; he steadfastly refused; I even
suggested he buys something for his fiancée, but then he countered saying I
should do it myself in September. I would remember many things and people of
Almaty, and Hamid would be one of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<b>Kazakh
Diary : Day 7 (Time to say disvidaniya): 13/06/2014</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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No
visit to a CIS country is complete without talking about Raj Kapoor and
Bollywood; that we realized in our earlier visit to Russia. Any taxi driver or
tour guide, on realizing we were from India, would break into ‘mera juta hai
japani’. Here, another rage has been Mithun Chakravorty. It was because of his
1980s blockbuster ‘Disco Dancer’. In Africa too, Mithun seemed to be popular;
it was released in Ethiopia while we were there, and it broke all records of
earlier Bollywood releases. Hamid had a collection of popular Hindi songs on
his ipod, and some numbers were of karaoke singing; it was fun listening to
‘mein chali mein chali, pichhe pichhe jahan…’ sung by local singers. Bollywood
movies DVDs are available dubbed or sub-titled in Russian. Hamid’s mother’s
favourite has been ‘Gardner’; guess what…Baagwaan, starring Amitabh B. Many of
the popular TV serials are also available. <o:p></o:p></div>
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They
say in Kazakhstan, people never say good bye, they say it with disvidaniya,
meaning ‘phir milenge. So, it is time to sing ‘jaane waale phir milenge, yaar
disvidaniya’. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
Sudhir<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<b>Almaty
to Delhi, 13 June 2014</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-76307655160861680082014-06-25T23:15:00.000+05:302014-06-27T09:19:08.740+05:30Visiting Nagaland<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Nagaland<o:p></o:p></div>
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Visit
to Nagaland happened just by chance. I had missed the chance to avail the LTC
for the block year 2010-13 (it was to be availed by 31 December 2013), when I
realized a number of staff members from the Department were applying to go to
Srinagar for the same block. On enquiry, I was told that the block has been
extended by a few months if you plan a visit to the hills. What a blind man
would ask for; the summer vacation was round the corner, and I planned a visit
to Nagaland. Srinagar also has breathtaking beauty, and you realize that with
each visit to the valley. Last I visited Srinagar was in 2003, when after a
visit to Leh, Vasuman and I descended on to the valley from Leh by road
traversing Batalik, Kargil, Dras, and the treacherous Zozila pass. I had
exclaimed that only after a visit to Srinagar and the surrounding areas, one
realizes why we could not part with Kashmir. We chose Nagaland since we know so
little about it, and it is shrouded by mystery that Nagas are man-eating,
snake-eating tribe, and are at perpetual war with India. Nothing could be
farther from truth, that we realized after visiting it. Moreover, a number of
our faculty members have been to Nagaland as experts for training programme in
the field of substance and alcohol abuse. They all have come back safe and
sound, with all praise for the local people and landscape of Nagaland. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Atul
and Ravindra gave me contact details of Dr Bernice to help me find a suitable
accommodation in Kohima. She did not mind whenever I bothered her, and helped
us find our accommodation, and to advise what should be our itinerary when we
were in Kohima. Though the capital of Nagaland is Dimapur, which has Nagaland’s
only airport, but for all practical purposes, Kohima is the main city for
tourist purposes as well as commercial activities. The air route to Kohima is
via Kolkata, where you change the flight for Dimapur. Our flights were on time,
and when we reached Dimapur in afternoon, taxi was waiting to take us to
Kohima, approx. 3 hours away. The road was in need of repair at many stretches,
the route passed through some small villages, not very spectacular, but what
was noticeable was that there was no visible garbage littered on either side of
road. Nearer Kohima, the landscape became beautiful on a hilly drive with
scores of banana trees in the wild. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p><br />
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Kohima
is steeped in history; one had vaguely remembered that the Japanese had tried
to enter India through northeast during the WW-II, but we realized that the
action took place right in the centre of Kohima town only after visiting the
War Cemetery. All the soldiers of Indian Army who laid their lives defending
Indian soil are remembered here, some of them as young as 17! Another
interesting place to visit was the local market, where you get all the local produce
and exotic food items! <o:p></o:p></div>
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We
had initially planned to visit Mokukchung and Longleng districts, but were
advised to look for alternatives in view of the road conditions. So we planned
a 3-day visit outside Kohima spending nights at the heritage village, Khonoma,
and Pfutsero, the village at the highest altitude. Visit to Khonoma was a
revelation; we had never seen a village as beautiful and clean as this. The
houses were well maintained; there were no garbage dumps on the streets or
outside houses. There were flowers blooming everywhere. Each house had dozens
of flowerpots all around. There were many historical places within Khonoma, and
our guide, Martin, explained to us about all. We trekked to a little further
away, and could spot Indian gaur (locally mithun) in the wild. They are
semi-domesticated, and are owned by people from the village. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The
two ladies (perhaps sister) gave us delicious vegetarian lunch, as if they were
cooking veg meals all their lives. It was all organic and from their own fields:
red rice, potatoes, green leaves etc. But very touching was the warmth with
which they fed us. They conveyed to us through our guide that on our next visit
to Nagaland, we must stay with them. In the evening, the temperature went down
quite a bit; we were staying with a family and they had also prepared veg lunch
also. The dining hall was warm with burning wood, the family and their nine
cats and kittens. The cats wanted to jump to our dining table again and again,
but once they realized we were feasting only on veg food, they became
disinterested. Next morning after having breakfast of bread, porridge, freshly
plucked plums, and bananas, we left for our next village, Pfutsero, but not
before shopping for red rice and honey. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Pfutsero
is the highest and coldest inhabited town in Nagaland situated at an altitude
of 7000 ft. It is said Nagas first came to Pfutsero before settling down to
other areas of Nagaland. It is again a picturesque town from where you can trek
to some other beautiful places. What one perhaps everyone does is to trek or
drive to Glory peak; we went up by car, but came down walking. While trekking
down, we met a few groups of local people walking up into the mountains; met
one teacher, who educated us about the various Christian sects inhabiting in
Pfutsero. It was our third day, and it was time to return to Kohima. By this
time, our driver, Rajkumar had become friendly with us. He was a Nepalese, but
was born and brought up here, and had never been to Nepal. For most of the
year, he drives oil tanker. He told us interesting stories about how oil is
pilfered from the tankers. He promised to take us to some interior places in
Nagaland in our next visit. Inshallah… <o:p></o:p></div>
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We
had a lovely time in Nagaland, and enjoyed our stay; we found people warm and
friendly, and willing to help. Had no difficulty in finding veg food. At
Pfutsero market, we had poori-chholey for our breakfast in a small restaurant
owned and managed by a Nepali family. <o:p></o:p></div>
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If
given a chance, I shall like to come to Nagaland once again, and may like to
visit some of the inner towns, and will not mind travelling in the local bus. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-11586675789196998712013-08-30T21:01:00.000+05:302013-08-30T21:26:07.699+05:30PATHS OF GLORY<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QKApN9b7bpXx1jS6lKRewfuhtL0CbH9wzyhqyLGx4hfOk32ttNpkwvD8hjiOSc0pY_04cH8Hw7zcT-RzkFR8hCLg6kbuMsTJmhFlVKzSfC1DJi8U7cM4rdA30i3UBDGdToE9YFrgqrI/s1600/pathsofglory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QKApN9b7bpXx1jS6lKRewfuhtL0CbH9wzyhqyLGx4hfOk32ttNpkwvD8hjiOSc0pY_04cH8Hw7zcT-RzkFR8hCLg6kbuMsTJmhFlVKzSfC1DJi8U7cM4rdA30i3UBDGdToE9YFrgqrI/s1600/pathsofglory.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span>It was 1999 when I first heard of
George Mallory; yes, in the month of May and the year was 1999, and very aptly
I was in Nepal. I was on deputation to Dharan (see my post on ‘Dharan
Revisited’) in the Eastern Region of Himalayan Kingdom of Nepal (yes, it was a
kingdom in those days) at the B P Koirala Institute of Health Sciences to
establish Department of Psychiaty with remit to establish full range of
services and training opportunities in mental health.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had fallen in love with the country, and
was impressed by the range and varities of mountains and treks spread all over
the country. Of all the 10 peaks above 8000 m in the world, 8 are in Nepal. But
then there are all grades of treks spread over the length and breadth of the
country for a beginner or an avid trekker.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">The news splashed
over the newspapers was that the body of British mountaineer, George Mallory,
was found by the British Climbing Expedition that had been set up to find the
remains of George Mallory and his climbing partner, Sandy Irvine. George
Mallory and Sandy Irvine were members of the expedition to conquer Mount
Everest and had perished on 8/9 June 1924. The body was found at the height of
8157 m (26760 ft) on 1<sup>st</sup> of May, 1999 and was remarkably well
preserved even after 75 years due to extremely low temperatures. </span><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The
expedition conducted service for Mallory and covered his remains with a </span><span lang="EN" style="color: #0b0080; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN;">cairn </span><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN;">on the
mountain. The body of Sandy Irvine has not yet been found. The camera has also
not been found so far, which could have conclusively proved that the duo did or
did not reach the top of Everest on 8 June 1924. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8tOfEr1mmQs9Bktks65ES7VNfUAiBEfz2S4gt_8M9RI5HfMMpk106yQfpve1WainQmuAU3_mzcDSUZwU0Fkb-Ln2NMLuakkztw1DKsGeKdoucbBGxV0het3lrN7xxMHFAcmxfrddxQ4/s1600/George_Mellori.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8tOfEr1mmQs9Bktks65ES7VNfUAiBEfz2S4gt_8M9RI5HfMMpk106yQfpve1WainQmuAU3_mzcDSUZwU0Fkb-Ln2NMLuakkztw1DKsGeKdoucbBGxV0het3lrN7xxMHFAcmxfrddxQ4/s1600/George_Mellori.jpg" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Since then it has been a subject of intense debate and resarch whether
George Mallory was indeed a first ever man to have reached the top of the Earth
at Mount Everest. The controversy has still not been settled and there are
claims and counter-claims on either side. One circumstantial evidence that the
believers now cite is that Mallory was carrying a photograph of his wife, Ruth,
in his wallet to be left on the top of the mountain. When his body was found,
the wallet was very much there but with no photograph of Ruth in it. Whatever
may be the truth, one thing which most of the experts agree on is that George
Mallory was certainly capable of summiting the Mount Everest. He was an
extraordinary climber with exceptional talent. He was driven to achieve the
feat. On being asked once why did he wish to scale the Mt Everest, he famously
replied, “Because it is there”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">The master story teller, Jeffery Archer, wrote a biographical novel on
George Mallory, ‘Paths of Glory’ in 2009, which I recently chanced to read.
Though all the characters of the novel are real, I can not say same for all the
incidents. But all the major events are real as they have been described in a
number of reports, biographies, and documentaries on Mallory. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">In 1924, when George Mallory started for his third visit to the Himalayas,
he was already past 37 years of age. His first visit to the mighty Himalayas
was in 1921, which was an exploratory visit to find the possible route/routes
to the summit. Very little was known at that time how human body would react to
the high altitude above 15000 ft. It has to be borned in mind that the highest
peak in Britain is Ben Navis at 4470 ft, and in Europe it is Mont Blanc at
15782 ft. These pale in comparison with Mt Everest that stands tall at 8848 m
(29029 ft). That was the time when bottled oxygen was only in the experimental
stage, the clothing was ordinary, and logistics difficult to organize, since
one did not know what to expect high up in the mountains. During the 1922
expedition, Mallory was totally against using bottled oxygen saying any
climbing was successful if it was accomplished unaided. During that attempt,
Edward Norton and Howard Somerwell managed to reach a height of 8225 m (26980
ft), while another fellow expeditioner, George Finch, an Australian, managed an
altitude of 8321 m (27300 ft). Mallory was surprised with the astonishing speed
with which Finch had climbed up using bottled oxygen. After two failed attempts
by his fellow expeditioners, Mallory made third attempt, which also remained
unsuccessful owing to extremely hostile weather. While climbing down, seven
Sherpas of Mallory were caught in the avalanche and perished beneath the snow.
Mallory himself was heart broken with this tragedy, and was accused of poor
judgement. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">During 1924 expedition, Mallory knew that that was his last chance to
summit the Mt Everest. He was willing now to use bottled oxygen for a
successful climb. George Finch, who was an advocate and expert in using such
oxygen was dropped from the expedition, and Sandy Irvine, 22 year old boy, who
had no experience of mountain climbing, other than scaling 5000 ft high peaks,
was chosen as an replacement. However, he was an enthusiastic athletic young
man, with expertise in using and repairing oxygen bottles. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">What happened on the fateful night of 8 and 9 June, 1924 has remained a
matter of intense speculation and research. After many unsuccessful search
attempts to locate the bodies of Mallory and Irvince, it was 75 years later on
1 May, 1999 that Conrad Anker, member of the search party led by Eric Simonson,
discovered well preserved body of George Mallory at the height of 8157 m (26760
ft). Camera has still remained untraceable. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Number of mountaineering experts and climbers have reacted differently to
the speculation that Mallory did reach the summit in 1924, becoming the first
ever man to reach the highest point on the surface of Earth, pushing down
Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay’s record to second place. Some have
said that to speculate in absence of any photographic evidence, it is even
wrong to make such assumptions. Others have said a successful complete climb is
not only to ascend, but also to successfully descend down. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN;">Two British Heroes, Robert Scott and George Mallory, could not accomplish
their mission: Scott to become the first ever man to reach the bottom of Earth,
the South Pole, and Mallory to become the first man to step on the highest
point on the surface of Earth, the Mount Everest, in 1924. Both perished to
realize their dreams. Scott did reach the South Pole on 17 January 1912, only
to realize that the Norwegian, Roald Amundsen had already hoisted Norwegian
flag on the South Pole 33 days earlier on 14 December 1911. Dejected and
heart-broken, Scott perished on his way back alongwith his other four
colleagues. </span><span style="color: #1a1a1a;">Scott's entry
in the diary reveals his great disappointment. “The worst has happened… All the
daydreams must go…Great God! This is an awful place and terrible enough for us
to have laboured to it without the reward of priority,” the diary entry reads.
George Mallory left a great mystery behind him, whether he did or did not reach
the highest point on the Earth. Inspite of all the risks, dangers, and
uncertainties, he wanted to do it ‘since it is there’. </span><span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial; mso-ansi-language: EN;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN" style="color: black; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN;">George Mallory II, grandson of George Mallory, summitted the Mt Everest on
1995 as a member of the American Everest Expedition. He left a laminated
photograph of George and Ruth Mallory saying it was to complete an ‘unfinished
family business’. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-75776052821042272372013-07-24T22:21:00.002+05:302013-07-25T20:43:59.022+05:30<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 115%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
THE BIG YEAR<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAI5wc_7fvoJKnpsvI5eUDl4c6fvt1K5OWSrpcqbi42CaX6_OEAMRZAWhj1zDTobUwJD6sDA9BtlAgi05VEuXEURgIJMIDq2qLVBPbb8q5j7ff1N1UZeuSvZHtDh1nRO7XBi16_YqjZk/s1600/220px-The_Big_Year_Poster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAI5wc_7fvoJKnpsvI5eUDl4c6fvt1K5OWSrpcqbi42CaX6_OEAMRZAWhj1zDTobUwJD6sDA9BtlAgi05VEuXEURgIJMIDq2qLVBPbb8q5j7ff1N1UZeuSvZHtDh1nRO7XBi16_YqjZk/s320/220px-The_Big_Year_Poster.jpg" width="216" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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THE BIG YEAR<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
That is the name of the movie that I saw during my Air India
flight to Kozhikode (formerly Calicut) from Delhi. It is truly a hopping flight:
two stops over at Mumbai and Coimbatore (the Tamils still have not changed its
name, or if they have, I am not aware) and in the process takes 6 hours to
reach from Delhi to Kozhikode; in the same time you may reach at least a few
destinations in Europe, and all in the destinations in Gulf area as well as all
over Asia. Normally I avoid seeing movies on plane; one, that the screen is too
small and too close for my comfort, secondly, most of the times, these are
highly abridged, and third, not less important, the hearing phone plugs do not
fit my ears. I am seriously thinking of buying good quality external earphones,
which you don’t have to insert inside your ears. However, I keep the screen
alive to see what is happening, or sometimes I steal a glance over other
passengers’ screens to know what are their choices. For example, when we were
flying to Zurich very recently, the young boy sitting diagonally opposite, was
watching some kind of a horror movie, the story of which seemed to have been
lifted straight from ancient Indian and Arabian stories. The demon in some far
flung area has an extra head on his shoulder, can penetrate wall of any
thickness, and is at ease whether running, flying or swimming deep under the
ocean. And he is indestructible by any weapon. Only fire could annihilate him
in the end set up by the young hero. And what was hero’s reward? No prize in
guessing; of course, the young beautiful princess. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
Well, on my flight to Kozhikode, I resumed reading ‘Paths to
Glory’ by Jeffery Archer, the book I started on my flight to Zurich. If you do
not know about this book, I will tell you some other day.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
When breakfast came, I switched on my inflight entertainment
programme, just to watch visuals, without the bother of listening to dialogues.
I stopped at one channel when I saw Steve Martin shooting birds, what else, but
with a camera. I had thought I would just enjoy his comical acting while having
my breakfast, but then, the birds caught my attention, and I decided to watch
the movie with all audio and visuals. The movie was about 3 people, who are
birdies: the passionate bird watchers. Steve is a successful business tycoon
who started from his garage, but now controls an empire, and is fiercely
competitive; Harris is a young man who at 36 is divorced, and does not have a
steady job; Baustik is another young and successful guy who is happily married
to a beautiful and devoted wife, and the couple is keen to have a child, for
which wife is under treatment at an Infertility clinic. They are unknown to one
another, and had decide to take a year off, the ‘big year’ from their
respective work. During this year, they and many other bird watchers would
travel all over the US to spot, sight, and photograph as many birds as possible,
and to achieve satisfaction of being a winner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Each wants to be a winner, because winning would bring them some glory
and recognition. Doing ‘Big Year’ is not just following a hobby for them any
more. What was just a passion becomes another nerve wrecking competition. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Steve and Baustik have no problem with funds, but when Harris
goes to his parents for a loan of $ 5000/-, his retired father retorts about
him not doing any worthwhile job, and wanting to erode their old age savings to
pursue his useless hobby of bird watching, and giving a fancy name ‘The Big
Year’ to his vacation. His mother comes to rescue at the last minute, and
drives recklessly to the JFK for him to catch his flight to a bird sanctuary
about to receive migratory birds. These three meet in the sanctuary, but would
not tell one another that they all have taken this as their ‘Big Year’, though
all suspect each other, and a fierce, but un-spelt competition sets among them.
The story is about how they try to stay ahead of the other, how they handle
their own demons and relationships, and how they learn some important lessons
of life. <o:p></o:p></div>
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In between the year, Steve’s office begs him to come to
office from his vacation to clinch a deal with a tough client; he resists
initially but returns to NY just for 4 hrs. But then, misses his chartered
flight to Alaska, and there is none for another week. So he lags behind in his
number game, and feeling very frustrated, decides to give up on completing his
Big Year. Then his wife reminds him that bird watching was his hobby, why he is
taking it as another business deal or rivalry. He should complete his ‘big
year’ enjoying watching and photographing birds, not just counting them. Harris
comes close second, but he ends up getting a girl friend, and more importantly
he learns the importance of relationship in life, when he abandons a field trip
to return to look upon his ailing father in the hospital. His father
understands his son’s passion, and gifts him funds to complete his year.
Baustik comes up as the winner, but in the process loses his wife; she finally
decides to leave him because he misses all the important dates at the clinic,
and she realizes that she is only at a second place in his life, and how much
he himself abhors the idea of coming to second place in the ‘Big Year’. After
losing his wife, the value of relationship dawns on him when sitting alone in a
park he sees a young couple walking with a child. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
Sudhir<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-82908726781402485042013-07-16T23:21:00.000+05:302013-07-25T20:37:04.824+05:30Pocket pinching in Switzerland<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyU1C-7FuGTTpwkw_HLUARURYElICfCglfBC14TcHIaX_7O0zYLKPr9K8dQm6VZBL919c1_BtBsIC9FHKS33qKSC9KnZPjINs-jJ7c-ppZJO57DxuTNlI9LB-ocBh0jyL8UIh3y0dZ5o8/s1600/IMG_1300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyU1C-7FuGTTpwkw_HLUARURYElICfCglfBC14TcHIaX_7O0zYLKPr9K8dQm6VZBL919c1_BtBsIC9FHKS33qKSC9KnZPjINs-jJ7c-ppZJO57DxuTNlI9LB-ocBh0jyL8UIh3y0dZ5o8/s320/IMG_1300.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">I never imagined it would happen to me in
Switzerland. It is called a country of milk, cheese, chocolates, watches, and
banks, and extremely tourist-friendly nation (all true) – all good things a
tourist wishes in life. It is a dream destination for anyone going overseas.
Honestly, we too enjoyed our vacation in Switzerland and may like to go there
once more, but then had some different experience also.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">I am usually careful regarding my wallet,
passport and other documents whenever I am on my trip overseas. Not that I am a
frequent flyer, but in last 3 decades of my travel to different places, I have
visited notorious places known for their skilled pickpockets. For example, New
York or Washington, where pickpockets have to prove their skills to their own
community, before they are admitted into their ‘prestigious club’. Larry
Collins and Dominique Pierre described it in the novel ‘The Fifth Horseman.’ The
novice has to pick the inner pocket of a jacket, which is lined with jingle
bells. The pickpockets of Barcelona, Rome, and Prague are described in all
travel guides; at the main train stations and bus stops, the advisory to the
travellers are prominently displayed to be careful about your <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>belongings and pockets. I survived all these
places. But it would happen to me in Switzerland, I could never imagine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Last week we were at the Zurich main train
station to travel from Zurich to Interlaken. As usual, the train station was
crowded, and the platform where the train to Interlaken was to leave, was
especially so. Switzerland has been unusually bright and sunny for the month of
July with no rains so far during our stay. There were a large number of
tourists, particularly Indian tourists. Chitra and I were carrying our
backpacks, and one bag each. After Chitra had boarded, when I started boarding
the train, one white man extended a helping hand to lift my bag. Even in those
few seconds, I realized that though he helped me to lift it, he resisted my
attempt to put the bag on to the rack in train compartment. This man went away
to the next compartment, and we took our seats near the windows to enjoy the
famous panoramic view of the route, which this train was to take. After some
time, when I cursorily checked my belongings and pockets, I realized my wallet
from the side pocket of my cargo trousers was missing. Not willing to admit
that I had become a victim of pickpocketing in Zurich, I checked my other
pockets, and then backpack also to be doubly sure, but all in vain. My wallet
was gone with my credit and debit cards, driving license and nothing more. Luckily,
in the morning, I had transferred all my cash to the watch pocket of my
trousers before leaving our service apartment in Zurich. Next one hour, I was
busy talking to my Bank in Delhi to block these cards. Fortunately, only
previous day, I had bought the locally available sim card for international calls.
It came very handy, and the calls to India were not expensive either. I could
block the cards in time. I escaped cheaply. But that was the end of my wish to
enjoy the scenic and panoramic journey to Interlaken, which was truly
breathtaking with its landscape, littered with lakes and beautiful houses
scattered all over. I realized that I had to be careful in Switzerland too. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">However, this was not the end of my bad luck or
my incompetence for </span><!--EndFragment--></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKLOq5RsJbeo507-kjs_2T0C8qrxoZ42J6lFoe5JG-wUMJuNfD9xfI9lzXsa5RtbkR2n9VGMnKu02Pz-LUsVN7skmKSG-Sloab1xQwRAtgW0gT2piiUKYpM6mIcCRrY8txMJ-CWvVHk4/s1600/IMG_7393.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWKLOq5RsJbeo507-kjs_2T0C8qrxoZ42J6lFoe5JG-wUMJuNfD9xfI9lzXsa5RtbkR2n9VGMnKu02Pz-LUsVN7skmKSG-Sloab1xQwRAtgW0gT2piiUKYpM6mIcCRrY8txMJ-CWvVHk4/s320/IMG_7393.jpg" width="213" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Our next leg of travel was from Interlaken to
Lucerne. As usual, the platform was littered with tourists. When we were to
board the train, again a white man, almost with gentlemanly look and in his
forties, allowed Chitra to board the train first. That meant he effectively
came in between us. Again the same ploy was enacted of diverting my attention
by trying to give me a helping hand to lift a heavy bag, and almost directing
me to where to put my bag. Til then I did not realize what was happening. Then
this man got down to join his colleague on the platform. After I had secured my
bag, the second man on the platform extended his hand towards me with some
money. He was holding some euro notes, gesturing that he found it on the floor
of my compartment. I was cautious, refusing to accept, and thinking that it
could be another ploy. But he insisted, and then I checked my back pocket, and
found the 50 euros (5 notes of 10 each) missing. These were the same crumpled
notes I had in my pocket. From the safety of my compartment, and with all our
bags secured, I accepted the money, and that man went away.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">I painfully became aware that my pocket was
pinched twice within a few days. But why did that man return the money? I am
still to fathom. Though, the usual currency in Switzerland is Swiss Frank, but
euros are also accepted everywhere, and the duo had made some quick buck,
though not a large one. I am still struggling to find the answer. Chitra says
he returned the money thinking that that was all the money you had with you,
and the loss would put you in deep trouble without it, so he took a pity on you.
But I am still confused.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">It is said, if your pocket is pinched once, it
is an accident, if it happens twice, it is your misfortune, but third time
indicates a pattern. Now it is up to me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Sudhir K Khandelwal<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">Lucern, 08 July 2013</span><span style="font-family: Arial; line-height: 150%;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: xx-small; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi;">(Written at Lucern, 08 July 2013)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-49507892624775226352013-06-26T23:55:00.003+05:302013-07-25T11:58:08.431+05:30The Great Himalayas unleashes fury<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVg4mR549py0kqrNfnNdS_AAPjyG98bs4b3jxtShWB-CXau3e2noPclQgnn1Dh5yZyPDlhIWpwwJAzxIB5TpSFmc7gXHc1XTXdpm_zybzKPKgrUHkxyOAB4LluWBTOyV_8ViRMPTwdLSI/s1600/IMG_0856.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVg4mR549py0kqrNfnNdS_AAPjyG98bs4b3jxtShWB-CXau3e2noPclQgnn1Dh5yZyPDlhIWpwwJAzxIB5TpSFmc7gXHc1XTXdpm_zybzKPKgrUHkxyOAB4LluWBTOyV_8ViRMPTwdLSI/s320/IMG_0856.JPG" /></a></div>
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I am returning to the blog writing after a long time, and had thought that I would restart blogging with my most recent visit to the Uttarakhand, the state where I love to return again and again. However, I am writing this mail on a somber note after all the devastation and destruction, and the resulting disaster that the state is experiencing following the nature’s fury. Let me correct myself, it is not all the nature’s fury alone. We, the mankind, have contributed immensely to the havoc that we are witnessing from the comfort of our drawing rooms and the safety of our television screens. Traditionally, disaster experts have divided the causes of disasters as being natural or man-made. After whatever I have read about disasters in India or elsewhere, I am of the strong opinion that practically all the disasters are man-made. I have voiced so in many of the scientific meetings where I spoke on disaster and mental health. We have made our houses or buildings too close to seashores to become easy victims of tsunami; our urban planning is totally unscientific making us sitting ducks during earthquakes. We have not looked after our rivers, which cannot absorb any extra water coming to them, and floods are a common feature every year all over the country without fail even with normal monsoon.
This year, I had first thought of going for a trek to Rupin pass, but dropped the idea realizing that I may not be fit enough to undertake this trek; then I thought of Kuari pass as a doable trek, but had to drop it too for some reasons. Then I thought of making a dash to Gangotri to get away from Delhi, and to see mountains and the river Ganga once again. After reaching Rishikesh, the scene at the bus stand was chaotic, too many people waiting to go to one of the ‘dhams’, or even ‘char dhams’, and there were not enough buses. Though I had reached the bus stand as early as 6 am, but could get on to the bus going only till Uttarkashi at around noon time. Most of the buses on various routes were ferrying passengers, who had come from far and wide, to Char Dham. Entry to Uttarkashi was choked with buses, SUVs, and cars. Most of the hotels had no vacancy, even for a night. I was coming to Uttarkashi after a gap of more than 15 years, and it took me by surprise. It looked a different town; there were too many vehicles on the road, there were houses and hotels everywhere. From the centre of the town, you could see neither greenery, nor the hills, but concrete all over. I left Uttarkashi early next morning at 7 am by a roadways bus. As it exited from the centre of the town, the town never seemed to end. There were building on the entire stretch of the road, which had become narrow and narrower due to encroachment by the guesthouses and hotels. Many of these hotels, guest houses, or resorts were half protruding on to the river, with a portion of their foundation going into the river bed. It was obvious that no planning had gone into conceiving these properties, and all safety norms were violated.
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We were just 3 km short of Gangotri, when we got stuck in traffic jam. There were so many vehicles waiting to go in the town, and equal number of vehicles trying to get out, that there was complete chaos. The vehicles were so jam packed that none on either side could move. Besides the frustration of being stuck, when I was just waiting to leave the cramped bus with rickety seats, I was also experiencing hunger cramps, having had just two cups of tea since morning. It was getting to be 2 pm, with no letting up in jam being in sight. I had no choice but to walk the next stretch of my journey carrying my own backpack. Once I got near Gangotri town, the signals appeared on the mobile, and I informed Pandit Manoj Jib of my arrival, who immediately came to receive me and escort me to my guest house. The Gangotri town looked so different from what I had seen 18 years ago. So many guest houses, shops, and eating joints had sprung everywhere. Most of the guest houses were packed to capacity. There were serpentine queues to have darshan at the temple. Previously one could go to Gaumukh and Tapovan freely without requiring any permit. But with Gaumukh glacier receding at an alarming rate, the number of visitors and trekkers has been restricted to 150 only. The number of ponies has also been limited to 15. It is said that earlier the entire stretch of 4 km between Bhojwasa and Gaumukh was littered with tea and food stalls, with trash reaching the mouth of the glacier. During our earlier visit, we had trekked from Gangotri to Tapovan with a night halt at Bhojwasa. Hence this time I was not very keen for any kind of trek.
I had planned to leave Gangotri on the morning of 14 June, but with public transport being limited, and too many visitors and pilgrims, I decided to leave on early morning of 13th itself giving myself enough margin to spend one night at Uttarkashi, if needed. It had rained quite a bit on the night of 12th. Though it had stopped, the driver of the Commander jeep forewarned us rain and traffic jam on our way to Uttarkashi. He did not halt even for us to have some tea or snacks. We made good progress, but just 20 km short of Uttarkashi, we stopped due to massive landslide because of rains of previous night. People were there for as much as 8 hours. We also had to wait for 4 hours before road was cleared. After that I got connections to Delhi in quick succession to reach here on the morning of 14 July.
I think I made to Delhi just on the nick of time, because from next day onwards, news started trickling in of the rains causing wide spread landslides and roadblocks. I am not writing anything about the death, destruction, and fury of massive water flow, since the media seem to have put its act together, by attracting attention of citizens and governments. Government scrambled to save lives of stranded people, but the real heroes have the defense personnel who have been relentlessly trying to save people’s lives, stranded in remote corners and recesses of mighty Himalayas.
I shall like to end the post by quoting following lines from my post on Roop Kund: Going to mountains has always been a humbling experience for me. We are always talking about the fragile eco-system and environment, but when you see nature at close quarters, you realize the might of nature too. One feels so small and insignificant before the hurtling and gurgling rivers and huge waterfalls, and mighty and grand mountains. I always believe in and owe our existence to the benevolence of nature; and would dread its fury. Going to mountains is to express my reverence to the omnipotent nature.</div>
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Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-60077000161861750172011-12-17T11:43:00.001+05:302011-12-17T11:47:10.429+05:30An Indian veteran recalls his Antarctic experiences<span style="font-weight:bold;"></span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">THE HINDU 15 DECEMBER 2011<br />An Indian veteran recalls his Antarctic experiences<br />R. PRASAD</span><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Dr. Ravindra can never forget his experience of surviving a seven-day blizzard with only a tent as shelter.</span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnnl-vHyofOLTpiY3Y41X8QjN9nKmruM7R7zMhDQ1u7ZvOZTv73UF0O-P5yNBFimiqTZBttp9dLSeUbU5PWcWIbifKpY44DBkHzgjVqINNASHg8sPzqJOaucFUWkFsf1HqJdUMwHEQBo/s1600/th15_south_pole_brs_864054f.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 230px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnnl-vHyofOLTpiY3Y41X8QjN9nKmruM7R7zMhDQ1u7ZvOZTv73UF0O-P5yNBFimiqTZBttp9dLSeUbU5PWcWIbifKpY44DBkHzgjVqINNASHg8sPzqJOaucFUWkFsf1HqJdUMwHEQBo/s400/th15_south_pole_brs_864054f.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686977327612927490" /></a><br />The first Indian expedition to the South Pole successfully reached the Pole last year, almost a century (99 years to be precise) after the Norwegian Roald Amundsen became the first human to reach the southernmost point of the Earth.<br />The eight-member team left the Indian base station Maitri situated in an ice-free area known as the Schirmacher Oasis on November 13, 2010 and reached the South Pole in nine days on November 22, 2010.<br />No comparison<br />“We travelled the entire distance of nearly 2,500 km in special vehicles got from Iceland,” said Dr. Rasik Ravindra, who was the Leader of the team. “We can't compare our journey with Roald Amundsen's and Robert Scott's. Theirs was a heroic effort. They did a hundred years ago something that we can't even dream of.”<br />Dr. Ravindra is the Director of the Goa-based National Centre for Antarctic and Ocean Research (NCAOR).<br />Coming from a veteran like Dr. Ravindra, these words have greater significance and meaning. He has almost lost count of the number of trips made to the icy continent. “I think it is 7 or 8 times,” he said to this Correspondent over phone. There have been 30 Indian expeditions to Antarctica since the first one in 1981.<br />The journey<br />Even in the comfort of the special vehicle, the 2,500-long journey was not a joy ride. “The terrain makes it difficult to travel,” he said. After all, the base station is almost at sea level and the South Pole is at an elevation of nearly 2,500 metres. And on the way, one has to cross a plateau that is 3,600 metres above MSL.<br />But it is not the terrain alone that makes the journey or staying in the continent difficult. Temperatures can dip to a minimum of -55 degree C in summer and to -89 degree C in winter. Add to this the wind factor. If normal wind speed is 22-30 km per hour, it can go beyond 200 kmph as well.<br />And the result is a blizzard or snow storm, just like sand storms in deserts. “It's due to surface drift,” he stated. A combination of both high wind speed and increase in temperature (warmer temperature) is needed for blizzards.”<br />Blizzards<br />Extra-tropical low-pressure systems always move from west to east in the coastal region. The warm and moist air from lower latitudes mixes with dry, cold wind in the higher latitudes. When this happens the temperature increases gradually. When the wind speed goes beyond 40 kmph loose snow gets lifted. The end result is a blizzard.<br />Blizzards are restricted to coastal regions in the lower latitudes (60 to 70 degree South) and are not seen in higher latitudes (near the Pole).<br />“It's dangerous and people can get lost in the blizzard,” he said. “We are either in the camp or inside the vehicle [during blizzards], or else… Sometimes yes, we do get trapped… we can't always predict.”<br />When the temperature increases they know a storm is building up, but are not always lucky to have a good shelter. Being geologists, they are out in the field conducting experiments, collecting data and samples. Mountains are where they work and since these places are 80 km away from the base camps, they are air dropped by helicopters.<br />Dr. Ravindra can never forget his experience in January 1987. The 5-member team had camped on Humboldt Mountain for field work. And then suddenly the blizzard set in and sustained for seven long days. The four-layered tent was their only shelter.<br />But three layers of the tent soon got ripped off. And they were left with a single-layered tent! Though the sleeping bags came to their rescue to keep them warm, they could not sleep for 3 to 4 days. “There was so much noise,” he recalled.<br />“We kept Campa Cola bottles inside our sleeping bags to prevent them from freezing. The Cola and biscuits were our only food,” he said. “But we survived.” The helicopter returned when the blizzard stopped, and to everyone's surprise found them in good health.<br />Things have changed. “We can now predict blizzards with high levels of certainty,” said E. Kulandaivelu, Director of the Regional Meteorological Centre, Chennai. “We use satellite images, satellite wind data, real-time observation from different observatories located in Antarctica to predict blizzards.” Mr. Kulandaivelu has been to the Antarctic twice (December 1989 to March 1991, and December 1999 to March 2001).<br />But not every trip ends on a happy note, though. The November 1989-April 1991 expedition was very different. The Indian team lost a couple of lives due to carbon monoxide poisoning in the shelter tent.<br />Other challenges<br />But you don't need blizzards to make your trip to Antarctica unique and unforgettable. When temperatures drop below -50 degree C a facemask is used. It has an opening for the eyes and two small holes for the nose. While goggles protect the eyes, there is no such protection for the nostrils.<br />The air they breathe out is warmer and moisture tends to come out of the nose. “Must wipe the moisture constantly,” he warned. “Else you would have ice crystals hanging from the nose!”<br />When it is not so cold, and when the facemask is not worn, snow and ice can settle on the nose and even eyelids!<br />If conducting experiments and collecting data are part of a daily routine, can taking notes be far behind? Unfortunately, taking notes or drawing some features is not possible with a gloved hand. “You have to remove the gloves for a few minutes…and your fingers get numb. You soon wear the gloves and keep your palm under the armpit to warm them,” said Dr. Ravindra.<br />How does it feel when there is just white all around? “It's like seeing blue all around when you in open sea,” he says. But his memory quickly rewinds and he says, “you can't see any bird, tree or building... you see nothing. There is vastness and emptiness all time around you. The vastness makes you realise how small you are… a speck of dust on Earth.”<br />The feeling of emptiness is particularly heightened during winter when it is dark 24 hours a day for six months at a stretch. Little wonder that it is mandatory for all participants staying back for the winter session to undergo psychological tests which check for ability to withstand isolation.Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-47042558459305377462011-12-17T11:39:00.001+05:302011-12-17T11:42:58.460+05:30100 years — Amundsen's dash to immortalityTHE HINDU 14 DECEMBER 2011<br />R PRASAD<br />100 years — Amundsen's dash to immortality<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7NQ9OhElEeFFnWhG3pHncjyDxR_mX3qjLgs58W8qi7gJqCtT-SkZ1XgxW7rJmFIW15J8k12niX-uEqCIKnu8TN2RJKcex95iRFLfwmqk3nctiZK4IZRqnglxyL5sOy7a5SgoCcbU2IUI/s1600/Amundsen.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 309px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7NQ9OhElEeFFnWhG3pHncjyDxR_mX3qjLgs58W8qi7gJqCtT-SkZ1XgxW7rJmFIW15J8k12niX-uEqCIKnu8TN2RJKcex95iRFLfwmqk3nctiZK4IZRqnglxyL5sOy7a5SgoCcbU2IUI/s400/Amundsen.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5686976250086116066" /></a><br />This day (December 14) 100 years ago, Norwegian Roald Amundsen became the first explorer to reach the geographical South Pole — the southernmost tip of the Earth. If his ambition to be the first man to ever set foot on the North Pole was scorched by Robert Peary in 1909, he immortalised himself by being the first to arrive at the South Pole.<br />“So we arrived and were able to plant our flag at the geographical South Pole. God be thanked!” wrote Amundsen in his diary soon after reaching the Pole.<br />The British team led by Robert Scott managed to arrive at the South Pole only on January 17, 1912, 33 days after Amundsen had hoisted the Norwegian flag.<br />DISAPPOINTMENT<br />Scott's entry in the diary reveals his great disappointment. “The worst has happened… All the daydreams must go…Great God! This is an awful place and terrible enough for us to have laboured to it without the reward of priority,” the diary entry reads.<br />While Amundsen and his men safely and victoriously returned to civilisation, Scott and his team, caught in a terrible blizzard — which lasted for five days — were unable to reach even their base camp.<br />“There has been nothing to eat for the past three days. Now, I am not even able to write. End is not far. For God's sake, take care of our families.” This was Scott's diary entry on March 29, 1912. Their bodies were discovered eight months later.<br />The reason why Amundsen reached the Pole earlier than Scott is not difficult to figure out. Their goal was the same, but their priorities were vastly different.<br />Amundsen was focussed, planned meticulously, and was fully geared for the challenge. Unlike Scott, the Norwegian had a team that had no scientists. Instead there were two expert dog-handlers — Helmer Hanssen and Sverre hassel, and one skiing expert (Olav Bjaaland) in his team.<br />He did not indulge in any scientific work and wasted no time taking a detour to studying Antarctic animals or collecting samples.<br />SPECIAL DOGS<br />Even the choice of animals was strikingly different. Scott took more ponies than dogs, Amundsen had special dogs to pull the sledges.<br />Worse, Scott sent his dog teams back to the base camps and men pulled their heavy sledges. If Amundsen had no hesitation killing the dogs that had weakened, and eat their meat, Scott believed that using man-harnesses was less cruel than using dogs!<br />The Norwegians used hermetically sealed cans to store fuel. The British team used washers, which failed in extreme cold. Similarly, Scott's motor sledges failed in the weather.<br />Even the choice of clothing was different. Living with the Inuits in the Arctic, the Norwegian learnt a great deal on how to handle all kinds of contingencies.<br />He had seen them eat meat diet. Unaware to themselves, the fresh seal and penguin meat that they ate helped keep vitamin C deficiency at bay.<br />In the end, the focus and clear priorities meant that Amundsen reached the coveted place weeks before the British team.Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-82716697743474988792011-11-30T18:11:00.008+05:302011-12-01T18:04:06.602+05:30ROOPKUND TREK : SLIDE SHOW<span style="font-weight:bold;">Please click the following link for a slide show : </span><br /><br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102505415752479852948/RoopkundTrek"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs3QkFKJj8mkRKadfPdQ9tOVuyAmDImrFLqap9ganDjiGpRmGjl7h9dHMqtAwZD5GvLajLk2qqW3uw3Gl7T8NGUxUQtu9HrFVOGOALoNjOkRS4BPU3EynDB6s5kUGFXVxZwlXgWd2cD4s/s1600/IMG_5524.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs3QkFKJj8mkRKadfPdQ9tOVuyAmDImrFLqap9ganDjiGpRmGjl7h9dHMqtAwZD5GvLajLk2qqW3uw3Gl7T8NGUxUQtu9HrFVOGOALoNjOkRS4BPU3EynDB6s5kUGFXVxZwlXgWd2cD4s/s400/IMG_5524.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5681135676642847730" /></a></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102505415752479852948/RoopkundTrek">https://picasaweb.google.com/102505415752479852948/RoopkundTrek</a></span>Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-10601458153714840672011-11-22T18:50:00.007+05:302011-11-30T11:52:39.929+05:30TREKKING TO ROOPKUND - the mysterious lake<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1nyf6OcXSEZ0KFEXVBEsgRdfLShAOB5yINpJSI2EModlyETh0pxGupd53onx-GaXI9E4WYFYHiX_B6PrWhYDEdXwgYlf3XwamwbPUtrioSsxTC_sHEyWiP8UucfQ0uFW2H_INv_gB5ME/s1600/IMG_5499.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1nyf6OcXSEZ0KFEXVBEsgRdfLShAOB5yINpJSI2EModlyETh0pxGupd53onx-GaXI9E4WYFYHiX_B6PrWhYDEdXwgYlf3XwamwbPUtrioSsxTC_sHEyWiP8UucfQ0uFW2H_INv_gB5ME/s400/IMG_5499.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677812722177067810" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwIc4aGemsYRl1ABydptj439BgUdIuEw8Ff93hld5gVY0iuQWLiwxzsO4IPftmHhR_ebLX8EBPpIgZocUO2o80gEZb2eyS2LE4_qVfjhUAiSi_t8zdk4mlXJcGMzLzTGZGdinkaFkhuqc/s1600/_MG_5498.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwIc4aGemsYRl1ABydptj439BgUdIuEw8Ff93hld5gVY0iuQWLiwxzsO4IPftmHhR_ebLX8EBPpIgZocUO2o80gEZb2eyS2LE4_qVfjhUAiSi_t8zdk4mlXJcGMzLzTGZGdinkaFkhuqc/s400/_MG_5498.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677812716827355586" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"></span><br /><br />I heard of Roopkund in 2002, when, after having returned from the US, I wanted to accompany Vasu for some trekking trip in Himalayas. Since time was short and I doubted my physical preparation for a trekking trip, we decided to go for a driving trip to Himalayas up to Dharchula. Pithoragarh and Dharchula had been in my mind ever since I found out that Kailash Manasarovar yatra passed through these towns. It was also reinforced by many patients who came to AIIMS for their health concerns, and talked about trekking opportunities in those areas. Motor Mama (see my post on Pindari Glacier) and Prakhar also joined us, and we started in our old but faithful Maruti 800. We had reached Gwaldam, a small sleepy town, late in night after leaving Rishikesh early morning and driving through Rudra prayag, Dev Prayag, and Shri Nagar (see post on Hemkund Sahib and Valley of Flowers). Next morning, the caretaker of GMVN guest house told us about the importance of this town as a kind of base for expedition for Roopkund, and the mysterious lake that was full of human skeletons. I had vaguely then thought of doing this trek, but the idea got reinforced after I saw a full documentary on BBC or Discovery channel some time later. <br />Roopkund (Skeleton Lake), as described by Wikipedia, is a mysterious glacial lake in Uttarakhand state of India famous due to more than five hundred human skeletons found at its edge. The location is uninhabited and is located in Himalaya at an altitude of about 5,029 metres (16,499 feet). In 2004, a team of Indian and European scientists visited the location to gain more information on the skeletons. The team uncovered vital clues including jewellery, skulls, bones and preserved tissue of bodies. Radiocarbon dating of the bones at Oxford University Radiocarbon Accelerator Unit determined the time period to be AD 850 ±30 years. (Ref.: Wikipedia)<br />Last few years, I thought of trekking to Roopkund seriously; however, found that the usual trekking groups based in Delhi did not organize Roopkund trek routinely. They were willing to customize a group for some of us, but then it would prove to be very costly. It was almost like serendipity, when early this year I googled Roopkund and it gave Roopkund.com as the first link! I was surprised that Indiahikes, the organizing group, was based in Bangalore and was arranging many batches every year. Vasu and I booked a date with Indiahikes, <a href="http://www.indiahikes.in">www.indiahikes.in</a>, June this year; though I could not go for some personal reasons, Vasu found the trek pretty exciting, and arrangements and team put together by Indiahikes amply satisfactory. <br />I shifted my booking for October, and also persuaded my colleagues, Dr Shariff and Dr Malini Shariff, also to join. They trek regularly, but we together had not trekked since our Nepal days. <br />I started physically preparing for the trek seriously two months in advance, knowing well that we would be touching 5,029 metres (16,499 feet). I was not too much bothered about the altitude sickness, as much as about my own strength and stamina. On advice and persuasion of Kush, I joined a gym, and went regularly for 6 weeks for doing cardio and muscle strengthening exercises. But, then Buenos Aires visit was also planned for quite some time just before our trek, and there was a breach in my preparation for 2 weeks. <br />I started on the night of 30th September by Ranikhet Express for Kathgodam, from where we were to go to Lohajung by SUV, a ride of 10-12 hours. Vasu was a sport to drop me to the station, but the last stretch of station was so crowded that I had to get down before reaching the entrance to station. In hindsight, it appeared a good idea if I had travelled by metro. The station was unusually crowded; everywhere there were groups with backpacks; it looked like all were bent upon going to Uttarakhand for spending their Dussehra vacation. October is a good month to go to hills; by that time there are no clouds or rains, winter has not set in, and peaks offer an amazing view in clear blue sky. The train started late by 1 hour, and at 6 am next morning, we found to our dismay that it was already late by 4 hours due to its preceding train meeting with some accident. After that, the journey was agonizingly slow and painful; I was worried about reaching Lohajung same evening; that would have involved jeep ride during the night, which is not a very good idea considering the shape of roads in higher reaches of Himalayas. After reaching Kathgodam at 11 am, we were further delayed by 1:30 hours because of 3 guys who unnecessarily occupied our cabs and would not budge; their agent had goofed up, and no cab was waiting for them. When they found 5 cabs (organized by Indiahikes for us) waiting to go to Lohajung, they quietly sat inside. It took a bit of argument and some phone calls to and fro Indiahikes that we managed to get them vacate our cabs. <br />Half of the journey from Kathgodam to Lohajung was on a familiar route. We passed through Bhimtal, Bhowali, Kainchidham (where we stopped for lunch), Almorah, Kausani and Garud. From Garud, we took the diversion to Gwaldam; beyond it was unfamiliar route where I had not ventured before. Our cab driver, Ramesh, was driving non-stop since our lunch at Kainchidham, and politely declined all our suggestions for a tea-stop. Though he was driving skilfully, I was a bit apprehensive about fatigue setting in, and day light fading out. He wanted to reach Deval (18 km before Lohajung, our today’s destination) on time to pick up a group of Nepali workers who were impatiently waiting for him for a ride back to Kathgodam. Dussehra is the biggest festival for Nepali people. As Ramesh would explain later, it happened not very frequently to have return passengers waiting for him ; that would mean a continuous drive of almost 20 hours. <br />Reaching Lohajung at about 10 pm and dumping our bags at Patwal lodge, we straight away went for dinner as we all were quite famished. Being tired now, I hit the bed soon after. Next morning, I got to meet my group members and staff of Indiahikes. Other than we three senior citizens, all were young guys below 35 years of age. They were all IT professionals, and most of them, expectedly, were from Bangalore. It was not difficult to establish rapport with them, and as I would gradually realize it was the best group I have enjoyed so far in so many of my group treks. They never made me aware of my age, except when they were curious to know it. They would happily include us three in their chit-chat, gossip, antics etc. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVNPqoESMxZqaqgg5x5kjuULGfxq9t5zuGjL07UMdBl7MfkMc6Q-8O8BGInadpVPZq1rImT_psAm56onj-aoMeZYYhAQEzL-RtTAE8HQ3EPZ4ZgozQmT1-yRcaiv4dKwNK1FnC6ApOoZc/s1600/_MG_5256.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVNPqoESMxZqaqgg5x5kjuULGfxq9t5zuGjL07UMdBl7MfkMc6Q-8O8BGInadpVPZq1rImT_psAm56onj-aoMeZYYhAQEzL-RtTAE8HQ3EPZ4ZgozQmT1-yRcaiv4dKwNK1FnC6ApOoZc/s400/_MG_5256.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677812737637403426" /></a><br />Our itinerary over next 5 days would take us to Didina, Bedni Bugyal, Patal Nachauni, Bhagwabassa, and finally to Roopkund, taking us from 8000 ft to 16000 ft. The trek is of moderate difficulty, and needs physical preparation before one undertakes it. But the difficulty is duly compensated by the beautiful and varied landscape throughout the trek: dense forests, waterfalls, hurtling water-streams, vast expanse of undulating meadows (bugyal), the kind you would rarely find elsewhere, and snow covered famous mountains and peaks. <br />I was expecting a clear sky in the first week of October, and was eagerly looking forward to seeing the majestic mountain range during our trek and stay. Weather gods did not disappoint us. During the entire trek, we had clear blue sky, fantastic view of the mountain range, a night sky that was star-gazer’s delight; had not seen so many stars in the sky since my days in Dharan (Nepal); those who were keen students of stars and planets were thrilled to view milky way through naked eyes. And we were not troubled by rains, hail-storm, (un)welcome snow fall, or extremely cold nights. Vasu had gone there in the month of June this year, and the group encountered all of the above making trek a bit, I should say (tongue in cheek) more exciting; the entire stretch from Patar Nachauni to the Roopkund was covered with snow in the month of June.<br />After Didina, we passed all the way up through a dense forest of pines, oaks, and rhododendrons. There must be many more kinds of trees, I am sure, but I did not recognize them. Many of the trees were afflicted with parasitic growth and were dying. There were birds chirping all the way, but were difficult to sight. It required patience to spot them. Since I was anxious to make to Bedni Bugyal on time, so did not break my walking rhythm. The dense forest opened suddenly to a vast meadow, the kind you do not see very often. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKxFQ80i_W_E014E2pICI-Z1Cg01oTcGGAApw6z9EkVh6QUAAMzvNU1byI-PQ6pQkao3fhfUG5-aKV5PtGbLhN26yFsFpJ_NKf_Gbm4LNIH0TxBq_drXGLUwbhnrnEng_wbL6BMU5quJs/s1600/_MG_5318.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKxFQ80i_W_E014E2pICI-Z1Cg01oTcGGAApw6z9EkVh6QUAAMzvNU1byI-PQ6pQkao3fhfUG5-aKV5PtGbLhN26yFsFpJ_NKf_Gbm4LNIH0TxBq_drXGLUwbhnrnEng_wbL6BMU5quJs/s400/_MG_5318.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677812728723722770" /></a><br />The first section of meadow was Ali Bugyal followed by Bedni Bugyal. On all sides, it was like a never ending meadow. We were fortunate to have clear visibility to have a fantastic view of mountains all the time till we left for our next camp following day. Group members were clicking shots all the time, and had photo-shoots of themselves against the backdrop of every peak. Theirs will be a portfolio worth admiration against backdrop of picturesque peaks. The peaks visible were: Bunder Punchh, Hathi parvat, Chaukhmaba, Neelkanth, Nanda ghumati, and Trishuli. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB3n91mM-gRS045rFGujgbfof_j22fId745UQAaNrgo_A6o5JaFv-79IcjqWe_fPBxSNm7X8j60h-1D-3RMeifD06P-V9eWN1IMJh4etx5q2vuHbNwY-vdtt6j4-p45PZjU7kVvJNsARA/s1600/_MG_5548.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB3n91mM-gRS045rFGujgbfof_j22fId745UQAaNrgo_A6o5JaFv-79IcjqWe_fPBxSNm7X8j60h-1D-3RMeifD06P-V9eWN1IMJh4etx5q2vuHbNwY-vdtt6j4-p45PZjU7kVvJNsARA/s400/_MG_5548.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677814654053189426" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQrezWEF7iybtiv2rTcRS0kgtRoctNyVdlUI6xO9Smx2lJaJ6Wfg2pwJU93_wdtieWBt6J3khW7qENZz6JgBWjPcRHQg8Vxvgfy0FVzJuAYApbFmZGXYH0vuyoeEe3ZrtSymLiPR8Z5k/s1600/_MG_5544.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqQrezWEF7iybtiv2rTcRS0kgtRoctNyVdlUI6xO9Smx2lJaJ6Wfg2pwJU93_wdtieWBt6J3khW7qENZz6JgBWjPcRHQg8Vxvgfy0FVzJuAYApbFmZGXYH0vuyoeEe3ZrtSymLiPR8Z5k/s400/_MG_5544.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677814649384829810" /></a><br />If one wishes to camp in upper Himalayas for a longer period doing nothing but just soaking oneself in nature’s bountiful sunshine and unpolluted air under starlit night sky, then, Bedni Bugyal would stand out to be one such great site. <br />At every camp, we were treated with fresh and hot meals, and in the morning before our departure we were given a small packet for replenishing our energies during the gruelling trek. The cooks and the supporting staff were very courteous and polite, and would insist that we ate properly. If for some reason, we could not get out of our tents, they would serve food inside our tents too, never resenting any of our demands. Group members too made no fuss about the food. But I found our fellow trekkers from Bangalore particularly allergic to potato; they would just not eat it. They said potato was not a part of their usual diet; they found it causing ‘gastric’. But what I found amusing was their relishing packaged potato chips, and ignoring that it was deep fried and laced with hot spices. We in north India can’t imagine our lives without potato. In fact I am a big fan of potato; it contains many essential micronutrients and is an easy source of energy; the only catch is that you should not fry or peel it. <br />After Bedni Bugyal (11,500 ft), the trek went up and up; the tree line had finished before Ali Bugyal, so the air was thin and low in oxygen making walking up a bit more strenuous than what it had been so far. The landscape had too changed. The chirping of birds had also ceased, but one could see hill crows and soaring birds of prey and vultures in the sky. <br />The trail to Patal Nachauni (or Ghora Lotani; Ghora is horse, and Lotani is to rest or lie down) passes through a temple and a kund (water pond). As we went up, it became cold and chilly. The camp site, though was secure in fibre huts, was not very exciting; plastic was everywhere. We had retired early in our huts, when to our utmost surprise, the kitchen staff brought food inside the huts. It was a heavenly gesture, as the chilly winds had almost killed the appetite. The sleep and appetite were slowly becoming a problem for many of the group members as we were gaining height; we were already at 12,500 ft. <br />Our next camp was Bagwabassa at 14,500 ft. One could call it base camp for the Roopkund. The air got thinner, and temperatures really low. Vasu tells me that in the month of June (when Delhi was scorching), the entire trail from Patal Nachauni to Bagwabassa, and Bagwabassa itself were covered with snow. One has to believe since it is so evident from the photographs. When we started from Patal Nachauni, it was foggy and misty; fortunately, there were no rains or any hailstorm. But the mist was giving quite a mystifying look to the entire area, almost making a perfect setting for shooting a suspense thriller. Though the trail to Kalu Vinayak temple is described to be an easy ascent, but each step would make me breathless. And negotiating path with stones and small boulders would leave all joints of lower limb tense and tired. As the name suggests, Kalu Vinayak is Ganesh temple with a black stone idol. Besides being a site for offering prayer for success of the group, the site also offers an ideal place for rest and photographic opportunity. Descent from here to Bagwabassa is gradual, but not easy, since you have to be careful all the time on the stony trail. But the feeling on sighting the camp site is euphoric; you almost feel you would make it now to the top. Just before the green fibre huts for our stay, there were a few stone huts made by locals for the tourists. We did not stay there, but I am sure staying there must be giving a feeling of living in stone age, or being a cave man. With each passing hour, mercury was dropping and we were told it would be sub-zero during the night; but then we would be in comfort of our huts and sleeping bags. Despite being warm inside the hut, it was difficult to have a long stretch of nap; whether it was the excitement and nervousness for next day’s trek or thin air, is difficult to say. In the evening we were fortunate to spot a group of about 7 'bharel' (mountain goats); it is an extremely shy animal and you would see it only from a distance, as we did it in some of our earlier treks. <br />I had started early for getting to Roopkund; I knew I would be slow and need to stop more often. And in reality, it turned out to be a slower progress. Each step was an effort and would leave me breathless. Dinesh, our ever-smiling and ever-helping trek leader, was constantly guiding me to move forward, and was a constant source of inspiration. I would say he literally held my hand to take me to last stretch of trail. On our way up, we saw Brahm kamal and Neel Kamal in plenty. We also saw a group of partridges (or was it quail). How did I feel on reaching the top? To be honest, it was a sense of relief of having finished climbing. The sense of accomplishment came later, and sank in much later. I was happy that I could do it, and fulfil a long cherished desire. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIPcHupDOEGuYpRcQpCQ1cRhqRKCQYTC16ejE3rlsPPqXksyVsKr4xNgKghLlERURxXpo-vK2ccyCejT_4dV0_GcM6dTeUElkWkD9AtUShAx8gbTHpt5-qnzM7kAv3IcXOVNjoJxcshJM/s1600/IMG_5516.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIPcHupDOEGuYpRcQpCQ1cRhqRKCQYTC16ejE3rlsPPqXksyVsKr4xNgKghLlERURxXpo-vK2ccyCejT_4dV0_GcM6dTeUElkWkD9AtUShAx8gbTHpt5-qnzM7kAv3IcXOVNjoJxcshJM/s400/IMG_5516.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677817194313823186" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg65h34cGSiaie75LPMdqKlvq6YGyXlsOfLMRvUByDg2eZUr5EFlyELUUMRSyzwt6Tecg-BE8Q5MF6ugQ-bZ30hUgHGeP2v6YIOGuRouhGvMVUfG6mNOG7lSoLbZx_DfGW0bgIL8OBjOWQ/s1600/IMG_5500.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg65h34cGSiaie75LPMdqKlvq6YGyXlsOfLMRvUByDg2eZUr5EFlyELUUMRSyzwt6Tecg-BE8Q5MF6ugQ-bZ30hUgHGeP2v6YIOGuRouhGvMVUfG6mNOG7lSoLbZx_DfGW0bgIL8OBjOWQ/s400/IMG_5500.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5677812746538362722" /></a><br />It is said that it is meaningless if you do not climb up to Junargali, which is the end of the pass, and from there you get unobtrusive view of the peaks. But I was satisfied with whatever I could achieve. I did not forget that climbing up is only half the trek; one also needs to get down safely and reach the camp on time. We were to head to Bedni Bugyal, a trek of more than 15 km on a zigzag stone and boulder trail. <br />I was helped immensely by the team of <a href="http://www.indiahikes.in">Indiahikes</a>. It has put up a great team at Lohajung, and each member of the team helps to get you to finish the trek successfully. I was also fortunate to be part of a group where each member clicked well with other members. I would love to do another trek with Indiahike and the same group members. <br />Going to mountains has always been a humbling experience for me. We are always talking about the fragile eco-system and environment, but when you see nature at close quarters, you realize the might of nature too. One feels so small and insignificant before the hurtling and gurgling rivers and huge waterfalls, and mighty and grand mountains. I always believe in and owe our existence to the benevolence of nature; and would dread its fury. Going to mountains is to express my reverence to the omnipotent nature. <br />Right now, my Mama, 82 (Motor Mama, as we address him), is raring to go all the way up to Lohajung in his Nano car to camp at Bedni Bugyal. Don’t be surprised; he has already been up to Badrinath shrine twice in last two years in his Nano.Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-24812194067204043302011-10-23T18:34:00.001+05:302011-10-23T18:44:11.912+05:30SARDAR FAUZA SINGHI first came to know of Sardar Fauza Singh in June of 2004 while I had just begun my job in the National Health Services as consultant in Leicester, England in 2004, while watching a BBC programme. I wrote the following piece then to share with my friends. I thought to share it with the web community now. <br /><br />WHAT IS COMMON BETWEEN MR GEORGE CHAMBERS AND SA<span style="font-weight:bold;"></span>RDAR FAUZA SINGH<br /><br />June 2004<br /><br />What is common between Mr George Chambers and Sardar Fauza Singh, well, both are nonagenarians. <br />As you are probably aware, I have been appointed as Consultant in Adult Psychiatry at the NHS. That effectively means that I should normally be seeing people between the ages of 16-65 years, though, sometimes I may continue to see a patient beyond 65 too if he/she were receiving care from our services earlier also, and the reasons of consultations have not changed. I have enjoyed looking after elderly people at AIIMS, New Delhi. They have many interesting stories to tell and enrich you with their vast experiences. And they come with less complicated personal problems. Looking after them would have been ideal here, as adult psychiatry at general hospital setting is much different here as compared to India. You are saddled with so much personality disorder patients, and you keep on struggling with their unchanging life styles, and recurrent problems at all the fronts, personal, social, relationships, and repeated suicidal attempts and drug and alcohol problems. And if it is anti-social personality, then it is icing on the cake. Most of the times they are unemployed, but are well looked after by the government-provided monetary benefits. <br />A few days ago, I was on emergency call duty. I was assured by my other colleagues and friends that there was nothing to worry about this since as a consultant, one hardly gets a call to see the patients in emergency. Mostly, junior doctors are able to handle it, or may take your advice on the phone. Well, true to Murphy’s law, call came in the afternoon from the Surgery ward of this hospital asking me to see a 92-year old patient who was threatening to commit suicide. I wondered why this call came to me, should have gone to the Old-age Psychiatric Unit. I did not know where to protest, so I went. I went to the surgical ward, and found Mr Chambers sitting on a chair chatting with his friend. He appeared to be not more than 70-75, had full growth of white hair, erect spine, and shook hands with a firm grip, and greeted me with a smile and clear loud voice. He had survived surgeries for prostate cancer, colon cancer and a few others. Lately he had had a few fainting episodes which resulted into his current admission, and that was worrying him. Surgery team had not taken this into account while drafting after-discharge care plan. He had lost his wife a few years ago, and was leaving alone in his bungalow with part-time support from the social worker. His concern was that if he fainted at home, and no medical help was available on time, he would die unattended. It was a reasonable concern. So when surgery team asked him casually in the morning if he was looking forward to going home, he replied he would shoot himself after reaching home. Then the surgery team decided to send for a psychiatrist. I found him a very reasonable person, full in command and well articulate. I assured him that I would recommend his case for him to shift to an old age home with all the facilities. When I was about to leave, he asked me if I was from India, and on my affirmative reply, he told me that he spent 4 years in India during the WW II. I had stood up to leave, but I sat down again. And he narrated some of his experiences while living in Lutyen’s Delhi. His memory was sharp, and he could remember the ‘Viceroy’s Palace, Queens way and Kings way, Jahanpanabad, Tughalak Fort, ChandniChowk, Delhi summer with mosquitoes and malaria, and of course delicious mangoes. His journeyes to Shimla, Dehradun, Massourie, etc etc. Lastly he said that the biggest mistake British did was to segregate India into two. I had come to see him quite reluctantly, but I left very satisfied. <br /><br />Sardar Fauza Singh is a 93-year old gentleman living in England for last 50 years. He too served in Royal Army. I saw him only on the BBC, being interviewed before his participation in the London marathon. Participating in marathons is his way of life. Has gone all over the world for such meets. His bone scanning was done some time earlier, the age of his right leg came to be 35 years, and that of left 50 years.Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-26203056464432052122011-10-18T18:45:00.002+05:302011-10-18T19:02:52.124+05:30CENTENARIAN Fauza Singh does it once again : with a marathan(<span style="font-weight:bold;">Pictures and text from the Toronto Star)<span style="font-style:italic;"></span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcJuXe6Xo7e2XU_4BEGU7r5-UYswanvR5QBwxDG2gYrTiC474W1-k79ucRNJTS1PYa0djAObFZ_mwF_w8KZIDavBN4V8nM2XR8-vxJ4Nw0Znwm-hlqqrJL72D3Cp-sShcVx56QP8CVxU/s1600/fauja+singh3.jpeg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 289px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcJuXe6Xo7e2XU_4BEGU7r5-UYswanvR5QBwxDG2gYrTiC474W1-k79ucRNJTS1PYa0djAObFZ_mwF_w8KZIDavBN4V8nM2XR8-vxJ4Nw0Znwm-hlqqrJL72D3Cp-sShcVx56QP8CVxU/s400/fauja+singh3.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664821325230847922" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7hTIF6rMyen0PAEaCkARSfaidyT6vNch4GeAQ77tpqT8RQVl6qRVsZETaLTgmaZBlvGCI3bJP70obzTm_OqVFasu8O0Y2pgPIb5fNncDfPxR9tMRDaa6SudgeZmuFYb0j-jbMRfZoQI/s1600/fauja+singh2.jpeg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 261px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ7hTIF6rMyen0PAEaCkARSfaidyT6vNch4GeAQ77tpqT8RQVl6qRVsZETaLTgmaZBlvGCI3bJP70obzTm_OqVFasu8O0Y2pgPIb5fNncDfPxR9tMRDaa6SudgeZmuFYb0j-jbMRfZoQI/s400/fauja+singh2.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664821317233929474" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC4cjZAaBq5wAt9eUzUa-5xpmEatbI6sFKSKVxZlLsnrOyomvonaoqVlq7RpoqikgaWPJSV0hUXTFTmtRmv5-o6tCMTM77jLkUjT-uCql2jekvNehLpydwaPd2UwAWOhU16ivKKN4-kHw/s1600/fauja+singh.jpeg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 341px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC4cjZAaBq5wAt9eUzUa-5xpmEatbI6sFKSKVxZlLsnrOyomvonaoqVlq7RpoqikgaWPJSV0hUXTFTmtRmv5-o6tCMTM77jLkUjT-uCql2jekvNehLpydwaPd2UwAWOhU16ivKKN4-kHw/s400/fauja+singh.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664821309070380610" /></a><br /><br /><br />TORONTO—Fauja Singh secured a spot in the Guinness Book of World Records on Sunday at the Scotiabank Toronto Waterfront Marathon. The 100-year-old accomplished an amazing feat, becoming the oldest person ever to complete a full-distance 42-kilometre marathon. It took Singh over eight hours to cross the finish line — more than six hours after Kenya’s Kenneth Mungara won the event for the fourth straight year — and he was the last competitor to complete the course. But his time wasn’t nearly remarkable as the accomplishment itself. “Beating his original prediction, he’s overjoyed,” said coach and translator Harmander Singh. “Earlier, just before we came around the (final) corner, he said, ‘Achieving this will be like getting married again.’ “He’s absolutely overjoyed, he’s achieved his life-long wish.” Although event workers dismantled the barricades along the finish line and took down sponsor banners even as Singh made his way up the final few hundred metres of the race, a throng of media, family, friends and supporters were there when Singh made marathon history. And Singh, who only speaks Punjabi, also surprised himself. Through his interpreter, he said he had set a goal of finishing the race in about nine hours. “He said he achieved this through the help of God but even God must be getting fed up of helping him,” Harmander Singh said, drawing chuckles from assembled media after the race. Sunday’s run was Fauja Singh’s eighth marathon — he ran his first at the tender age of 89 — and wasn’t the first time he set a record. In the 2003 Toronto event, he set the mark in the 90-plus category, finishing the race in five hours 40 minutes and one second. And on Thursday in Toronto, Singh — whose first name means soldier — broke world records for runners older than 100 in eight different distances ranging from 100 metres to 5,000 metres. Singh, a five-foot-eight, 115-pound British citizen and vegetarian, looked tired and spent following the race and organizers gingerly assisted him to the post-event news conference. After receiving gentle massages to his legs and calf muscles as well as cups of water from members of his entourage, Singh leaned back on a couch and spoke little to start the news conference. But a short time into it, he began looking remarkably relaxed and fresh with his hands clasped behind his head. Then, he abruptly sat up straight and with a smile, motioned for the microphone, obviously getting his second wind.<br />“He says he’s recovered now so he’s going to talk,” his translator said, again drawing laughter.<br />Affectionately dubbed the Turbaned Tornado, Singh began running roughly 20 years ago after losing his wife and child. The five-foot-eight centenarian said he’s happy to see more minorities taking part in such marathon events and is hopeful his next project will be participating in the torch relay for the 2012 London Summer Games.<br />Singh carried the torch during the relay for the 2004 Athens Games.<br />Race director Alan Brookes struggled to find the right words to describe Singh’s remarkable accomplishment. “I’m speechless,” he said. “Fauja Singh is a remarkable human being.”<br />A 100-year-old man began Thursday with a sprint and ended with eight world records.<br />Fauja Singh ran through eight track events in succession at Birchmount Stadium in Scarborough as part of a charity event, Sikhs in the City. <br />Running — and smashing records — gave Singh some focus following the death of his wife and son. He became suicidal after watching a piece of sheet metal decapitate his son. Then he moved to England to be near his other son.<br />And then he just felt like running and setting records.<br /> “I am but a simple man,” Singh the competitor, a Sikh with a long white beard who only speaks Punjabi, said in a translated statement. “I give it my best shot and it happens that the results are better than others.”<br />He’s already set three records for men over 90 — one for 10,000 metres, which he completed in 64 minutes in the Lahore Marathon in 2005; and two in Toronto, for a half-marathon in 2004 (2 hours 29 minutes 59 seconds) and a full marathon in 2003 (5 hours 40 minutes 1 second).<br /> “I always wanted to be the oldest marathon runner and said to myself that if an opportunity presented itself, I will not turn it down,” said Singh.<br />He chose Toronto because it is where he had his best showings before. Plus, the people “seem more accommodating of other cultures than some other parts of the world where the Sikh appearance is wrongly prejudged.”<br />Singh wants to raise money for local charities, including Guru Gobind Singh Children’s Foundation, which is run by children and youth to help other kids meet basic needs.<br />But still. 100.<br />“In the Punjabi language, there is no such word as impossible,” said Singh the trainer.<br />At an age where having a healthy mind is itself a feat of strength, Singh the competitor is in remarkable — borderline miraculous — physical shape.<br />His trainer points to a bone density test done last year when the runner was 99. Singh’s left leg was found to have a density of a 35-year-old; his right leg had that of a 25-year-old.<br />Times to beatSudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-38749522609458805352011-03-02T22:06:00.004+05:302011-03-02T22:12:17.929+05:30INDIAN ARMY EXPEDITION SKIIS ALL THE WAY TO SOUTH POLE<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfgxIaj_jRWX4GsMXqtFyXBKMoBXDHcG5E9tjy-lUWZlTAgSQyCDDqcybUjJ7gtr8pC-aokhfpBLmXpySv3fZ_4UUkeYmZDUd9bZANdVwWfVZuyuNXeYbsIKQe2Q4jqZGJArxUhyphenhyphen7RaAg/s1600/south+pole.bmp"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfgxIaj_jRWX4GsMXqtFyXBKMoBXDHcG5E9tjy-lUWZlTAgSQyCDDqcybUjJ7gtr8pC-aokhfpBLmXpySv3fZ_4UUkeYmZDUd9bZANdVwWfVZuyuNXeYbsIKQe2Q4jqZGJArxUhyphenhyphen7RaAg/s400/south+pole.bmp" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5579522880040645330" /></a><br />Double click on the image to have a larger view.Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-1268015173746570572011-01-12T14:37:00.004+05:302011-01-12T14:49:16.736+05:30INDIAN EXPEDITION TO SOUTH POLE<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfaoxh7xqcwNiF6GG_ues0HMBP_SXDXlXMdukewd86jU03sSNt7OkKO2Wp_kBEiyfiJDgr20u3RSa52v30tmD-hsZVvziRrq1QjfVPbWGplyK0AB_hAUCDZans8kSHkqDEkmWvh0Y1CYo/s1600/new+yr.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfaoxh7xqcwNiF6GG_ues0HMBP_SXDXlXMdukewd86jU03sSNt7OkKO2Wp_kBEiyfiJDgr20u3RSa52v30tmD-hsZVvziRrq1QjfVPbWGplyK0AB_hAUCDZans8kSHkqDEkmWvh0Y1CYo/s400/new+yr.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561225764922725426" /></a><br /><em>(photo courtesy: Ashit Swain)</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtC6-An9KvIgT13qmxDsWbP6ePCqvZY0iqTCoY6kwL4zcd_8gjwXO-LIoxOKg5qirkp2IuR1i5Xn-J9pjzyvykCTLTCMEDJ1dtvxQUCJRYM8PlepusJZeZEgzH1fGAjrygTYRGqH4bM8/s1600/AVN_SOUTHPOLERS_351562f.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 275px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtC6-An9KvIgT13qmxDsWbP6ePCqvZY0iqTCoY6kwL4zcd_8gjwXO-LIoxOKg5qirkp2IuR1i5Xn-J9pjzyvykCTLTCMEDJ1dtvxQUCJRYM8PlepusJZeZEgzH1fGAjrygTYRGqH4bM8/s400/AVN_SOUTHPOLERS_351562f.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5561225186435522418" /></a> <em>(Group photo and text from The Hindu dt 12/11/2010)</em><br /><br />Cooking was toughest: Indian South Pole expedition team<br /> <br />The Hindu Rasik Ravindra, Director, National Centre for Antarctic and Ocean Research (third left) along with team members of the first Indian Scientific Expedition. Photo: Shiv Kumar Pushpakar <br />It was not the bone-chilling minus 54 degrees Celsius, the difficult terrain or even the cold gusts blowing at 150 km/hour, but lighting a stove and cooking that posed the biggest challenge to the eight-member team of India’s maiden expedition to the South Pole.<br /><br />The team led by National Centre for Antarctic and Ocean Research director Rasik Ravindra traversed the shortest path to reach the southernmost tip in just eight days.<br /><br />Speaking about his experiences during the expedition, Mr. Ravindra said: “The toughest challenge was to cook, as in temperatures as low as minus 50 degrees Celsius it was difficult to light the stove.”<br /><br />“We were carrying ready-to-eat meals with us but we had to put them in boiling water for cooking, and boiling water in this temperature was tough,” the 62-year-old Ravindra said.<br /><br />The team said there were some depressing moments during the expedition but their determination and team spirit carried them through successfully.<br /><br />“When we started, we were worried about the low temperature, high altitude and shortage of oxygen at that altitude. Many times our vehicles developed some problems, we faced a lot of problem melting ice into water and cooking,” said Pradip Malhotra, expedition doctor.<br /><br />The team, consisting of a geologist, glaciologist, geophysicist and a meteorologist as well as vehicle engineers, had left Maitri, India’s second permanent research station on the Antarctica, on Nov 13.<br /><br />“It was a gratifying experience and a lifetime opportunity. Once you reach there, you will realise the importance of basic things like fire, water and warmth. Despite making so much advancement in technology, you still have to depend on nature so much,” said M. Javed Beg, in-charge of logistics during the expedition.<br /><br />The expedition travelled on four specialised Arctic trucks and each of these vehicles, besides its human baggage, carried special gears, emergency medical kit, frozen food, and navigational and scientific instruments.<br /><br />The scientists conducted five experiments during the journey.Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8646030733795701511.post-25364695429471570362010-10-06T17:39:00.002+05:302010-10-31T00:00:47.625+05:30VALLEY OF FLOWERS : slide show<embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://picasaweb.google.com/s/c/bin/slideshow.swf" width="600" height="400" flashvars="host=picasaweb.google.com&hl=en_US&feat=flashalbum&RGB=0x000000&feed=http%3A%2F%2Fpicasaweb.google.com%2Fdata%2Ffeed%2Fapi%2Fuser%2Fdelhi.sudhir%2Falbumid%2F5519690665600862673%3Falt%3Drss%26kind%3Dphoto%26hl%3Den_US" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer"></embed>Sudhir Khandelwalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03305756205792734369noreply@blogger.com2