SHIMLA – THE SUMMER CAPITAL OF BRITISH INDIA

I had been to Shimla a few times earlier, however, when I went to Shimla (spelt ‘Simla’ then) with Chitra, Ishu and Vasu way back in 1987, I almost vowed to myself never to return to Shimla again as a tourist. Though I have been to Shimla many times since then, but always for work, and have stayed there just for a day overnight. At that time, we had stayed in the AIIMS guest house at Summer Hill. India’s first Health Minister, Rajkumari Amrit Kaur had a soft corner for the AIIMS, and had gifted her property at Summer Hill to AIIMS. Gandhi Ji is said to have enjoyed the hospitality of Raj Kumari Amrit Kaur at this house. It is beautifully located surrounded by tall pine and deodar trees, and is very close to the University.
What put me off in 1987? Climate wise, Shimla was not much different from Delhi in the month of June. The Mall Road was as crowded with tourists as Chandni Chowk or Karol Bagh. We ran into some of Delhi wallahs there whom we saw only infrequently back in Delhi. One could only have chhole-bhature at the Baljee’s; there was nothing like local food. But children had, perhaps, enjoyed their stay there, especially, the ride on Kalka-Shimla train, walks, pony-rides, and a reward of softy ice-cream after a long walk from Summer Hill to Mall Road. So, last month when I got a call to visit Shimla once again for a brief meeting, I was quite pleased. I would again be away from the oppressive heat of Delhi. I did not mind when I was advised to come a day earlier since the meeting would start early in the morning, and traveling by night train was not a feasible option. I would travel by Shatabdi Express till Kalka, and then take a taxi to reach Shimla. Travel time to Kalka from Delhi is 4.30 hours, and the track runs parallel to G.T. Road. Last time I traveled on this route was more than a year ago. May be, since I was traveling alone this time, I looked outside more often even when I had the company of an engrossing book. Very soon it dawned on me that all along there were houses on either side of the track and road. Big and small constructions had sprung all the way. There were no uninterrupted stretches of land or green fields. Previously during this time, one could see men and women busy working in the field, but now if you saw them, they were either traveling on tractor-trolley or working at construction site. The train reached Kalka on time. Kalka was hot, but I did not bother much since I was to travel uphill all the way to cold climes of Shimla. Since the tourist season was practically over, the taxi stand was deserted and I had no problem in hiring a taxi. The hills start even before you cross the town of Kalka. However, the drive which used to be so pleasurable and refreshing earlier was not the same anymore. The greenery on both sides of the road had thinned away. It had given way to mushrooming construction all along. There was not a single kilometer of stretch which did not have a house, office, dhaba, restaurant, hotel or a shop selling all kinds of goods. It was quite a sad picture.
At Shimla, my staying arrangement was made at Peterhof hotel. I was quite intrigued by this name having read, heard, and seen so much of Peterhof during our Russia visit. A quick search on the net brought out the following information, ‘Peterhof Hotel is located in the heart of Shimla city at Chaura Maidan offering panoramic view of Choorchandani on the front side, Dhauladhar ranges on western side and Kinner Kailash on the eastern side. It is also strategically situated with the State Museum on one side and famous Viceroy Legal Lodge on the other side, now housing the Institute of Advance Studies. The Peterhof, originally built in early 19th century, housed at least seven Viceroys and Governor Generals during the Raj. The first Viceroy to move into Peterhoff was the Earl of Elgin who arrived in Shimla on 4th April 1863. After independence the building served as Punjab High Court and it was here that the trial of Nathu Ram Godse, who assassinated Mahatma Gandhi, took place in 1948-49. When Himachal became full fledged state the building became the Raj Bhawan, Unfortunately it burnt down in 1981 but it was restructured in 1991 and designed to match the hill architecture palatial pattern and now is a heritage luxury hotel’. However, the net could not give me any information as to why it was named after Peterhof. I thought of finding more about it there itself. The hotel is situated at a quite strategic place, offering a very panoramic view of hills in front. Though it is supposed to be a heritage hotel, it could do well by paying more attention to its maintenance. I made enquiries from the staff there about the origin of this property’s name, but no body had a clue. There was not a single photograph of its original structure, or its earlier occupants from Raj era. Nor was there any photograph of the historic Nathuram Godse trial. May be, the State Museum next door has some of those historic photographs.


Since I had reached much earlier than the sun-set, I went for a walk towards Mall Road. It was terribly hot and humid in Shimla too, and did not look much different from Delhi’s weather. Locals told me that there was not much snow during the winter, and now the rains have also eluded Shimla, with the result the weather had turned too warm. The apple crop has been severely affected, as much as by half. It was evident in the market when I saw the size of apples; they were not bigger than an ordinary lemon.



At Mall Road, I found good old Indian Coffee House. I have so many good memories of Indian Coffee House which were many in Delhi previously, but now have disappeared. I went in to feel the aroma of filter coffee and taste its dosa dipped in sambhar. Being evening time, the coffee house was almost full to capacity, and did not mind sharing my table with an elderly couple. We immediately struck good rapport and talked politics, region, spirituality, and Shimla life. I will remember meeting them as one of the high points of my Shimla visit. I seemed to have brought some good cheers to Shimla; it started raining when I headed back to the hotel. I did not mind, only lucky ones get drenched in the rains.

NEVER CHALLENGE A LOVER

This morning when I went to the back courtyard, I saw two monkeys climbing down the pipe, and then casually walking towards the kitchen garden. I realized they did not cross the boundary, but had settled comfortably in a corner. Not liking the idea of having two monkeys in the garden, I yelled at them to get lost. Instantaneously, the bigger monkey came charging towards me, showing his all incisors and canines and growling menacingly. I just stood frozen, not knowing how to react; but my dad who was enjoying his morning newspaper and cup of tea sitting on the swing, stood up charged and came forward making equally menacing sounds. The monkey had not seen him earlier, but was now taken aback and stopped in his track and retreated back to the company of his mate, nudged her, and both of them walked away, but showing no urgency to leave. I am sure he must have said to his mate that he spared this middle-aged man in consideration of his old father. Now I realized they were a young couple, and the male who came charging towards me, was a strong and handsome specimen. Obviously he did not like the idea of my trying to chase him away when he was wooing his love interest. We all know that the females in the whole animal kingdom get overprotective towards their newborns, and challenge even mightier enemies once they perceive any threats to their offspring. But the male pride could be so fragile, so sensitive, so easily provoked? Of course, he was on a trip; with all his pride and vanity he must be boasting to his love interest and showing off all his territory and empire. How could he tolerate any challenge to his authority! Proving his prowess, whatever may be the challenge, was an investment to his love life. He will make this investment again and again, whether to scare the human beings, or ward off a potential rival.
A popular blogger with a huge fan following, in one of her posts, posed this question to her readers: Is love a one-time-lump-sum investment that you make to go on enjoying its returns unlimited? Or is it a daily wage earning that you must work for each day? What is my take on this? I think investment is a continuous process, it has to become a habit. Whether it is to with our finances or with our body or mind, or with our interests or hobbies, all require regular investments. Investment is not limited to this. We have to regularly invest in our children; in our friends, relatives, and acquaintances; in our staff and students; in our domestic helps and maids; in our gadgets, and the list is endless.
So why not in our love interest!

PINDARI TREK - SLIDE SHOW

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MOSCOW SLIDE SHOW

ST PETERSBURG SLIDE SHOW

TREK TO PINDARI GLACIER

I had been thinking of trekking to Pindari for a long time. It had been a long cherished desire. I heard of Pindari glacier from Motor Mama who had done this trek in 1946 at a young age of 16-17. Motor Mama is my uncle, my mother’s brother (mamaji), from Indore and we have always addressed him like this since our childhood when we must have seen only him driving the family car. Motor Mama has never looked back since then, and must have measured the length and breadth of Uttarakhand many times over. Though I have trekked to some other glaciers, the Pindari eluded me even when that was the first glacier I had known, and is supposed to be one of the most accessible glaciers. But this year opportunity came almost knocking at the door. Vasu’s plans to trek to Sunder Dhunga glacier with a group had fallen through. I suggested to him Pindari for both of us, and planned an eco-trek, that is, we would travel by public transport, and stay and eat in road-side huts; the only luxury we would allow ourselves would be the services of a porter cum guide. However, Leena, Rajesh and Vinayak from Vasu’s original group joined us, and from an eco-trek it turned into a premier packaged tour of KMVN. Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam (www.kmvn.org) organizes packaged tours to many of its popular treks and glaciers for all kinds of trekkers. Though it does take away some of the charm and thrill of adventure, yet, it provides a convenient way to explore the unexplored Himalayas, especially if time is short and one wishes to avoid all the hassles of bookings or uncertainty of adventure. Though originally we had planned a trip of 10-12 days, but in deference to wishes of the group, had cut it short to 8 days, from Sunday to Sunday. Vinayak at 12 was the youngest member of the group, while yours truly was the eldest; age proof not required.
1st Day: From Delhi to Bageshwar: 450 km
We left Delhi early morning to avoid the rush on NH 24 later in the day. NH 24 goes to Haldwani and Kathgodam via Garh Ganga, Gajraula, Moradabad, Rampur, and Bilas Pur and Pantnagar. NH 24 can be very trying due to its unpredictable (or predictably predictable) and long traffic jams. I had traveled or driven on this road a few times in last few years, and I was so frustrated in 2007 driving there that I had vowed to myself never to return to this highway until and unless I got confirmed news that it had become worthy of being called a road. One wondered how India could boast to fast-track its economy and development with such infrastructure. However, road had appeared much better in April this year when we had traveled to Bareilly. As on earlier occasions, this time too, we stopped at Gajraula for our breakfast of dry paratha (sans ghee or butter that you get separately) and lassi. After Ram Pur (town famous for its knives, and lately put on national map by Jaya Prada), the drive had become comfortable and pleasurable. But we got stuck at Bilas Pur to cross a small bride over a small river. The bridge was too narrow to handle two-lane traffic, and Vasu reminded us that the adjoining unfinished wider bridge was at the same stage of construction as we had seen in 2007. After passing Haldwani and Kathgodam, we stopped at Bhowali for lunch. Bhowali was known in earlier days for its sanatorium. The drive was becoming more and more scenic with mountains and tall coniferous trees in view all along. We crossed Almorah well in time and headed for Bageshwar. We chose to take shorter route via Binsar; however, it proved to be wrong choice as the road was under major repair all along and we reached Bageshwar only by 7:30 pm in the evening. In last few years, it was my third visit to Bageshwar.


2nd Day: Bageshwar to Lohar Khet
Bageshwar is a small sleepy town at 975 m (3217 ft) on the bank of confluence of Gomati and Saryu rivers, and hence is considered an important pilgrimage town. Though there are two rivers, but it was sad to see just a trickle of water, it looked more like a nallah. It has a 7th century Bagh Nath temple devoted to Lord Shiv, and has as its exhibits nearly thousand years old statues. Around temple, there are shops and eating places. During our last visit in June, 2007, we had settled down at an eating place, when Chitra asked for the fans to be switched on. To her amazement, the shopkeeper politely declined to switch on the fan. And the reason he gave us impressed us tremendously. The tiny migratory swallows had built their nests in his shop, and a revolving ceiling fan would have been a sure killer. He informed us that these birds come here every summer, and stay for 2-3 months till their young chicks grow enough to fly to reach their next destination. We were only a transient visitor, but the shopkeeper (and many others in this town), a true environmentalist, had been sweltering every year in the oppressive summer months for the sake of these birds. Swallows build their nests with mud etc which appears hard as concrete. This time too we witnessed these restless birds and their nests and young ones. From Bageshwar, we traveled 45 km by a jeep to reach Saung. The motorable road ends here. Here we met our guide and porter who would accompany us for next 6 days. We trekked uphill for 5 km to reach Lohar Khet at 1760 m (5800 ft). We had wonderful lunch at the kmvn rest house of ‘kadhi’ and ‘marhua ki roti’. The rest house was a hub of activity with a group of trekkers from Kolkata and another group from Michigan arriving there after completing their treks. There were a few brightly coloured scarlet minivets noisily chasing each other on tree tops. I rued my decision not to bring my zoom lens. A little rain had made the evening quite chilly. Our mobiles had stopped receiving signals here; and there was of course no radio or TV or newspaper. Within a day we were so far away from the civilization, and yet strangely, we did not miss any of those things.


3rd Day: Lohar Khet to Khati: 17 km
We were to trek 17 km on our 3rd day, so we left early soon after having our tea at 5 am. It was all the way uphill, and after 3 hours of walking we had our breakfast of, what else, aloo paratha, and resumed walking once again. The trek so far was not too spectacular, though all around it was green. One could see huge patches on the hills where soil erosion had taken its toll. We met a group of young boys coming down after completing trek to Sundar Dhunga. They were excited, yet disappointed in not having seen much of snow at the zero point. Global warming or whatever had taken its toll. We had trekked for 8 km to reach the pass, Dhakuri Khal, at 2940 m (9700 ft). From here, we descended 1 km to reach Dhakuri which has a KMVN tourist rest house. The place was so scenic that one could spend a few days here without going further. However, this was not our destination for the day; we were to trek downhill for another 8 km to reach Khati (2210m; 7300 ft). After lunch, we again pushed ourselves through a beautiful forest full of rhododendron trees. Though October is the usual month of bloom, yet a few flowers had bloomed over some trees. As we reached near the village of Khati, the fields had plants of cannabis scattered here and there. Khati village had about 300 houses, and had a post office with PCO and STD facility. There were some private guest houses as well where one could get a room for as much as 100-200 rupees. Many houses had solar panels and satellite dish over their roofs. At Khati, the trek bifurcates with one trek heading towards Sundar Dhunga. From village the kmvn rest house was at a steep climb of less than 1 km, but that seemed to be the most difficult part of the trek. It was after 4 pm when we reached the rest house, and were dead tired.


4th Day: Khati to Phurkiya: 18 km
Our destination was Phurkiya today at an altitude of 3250 m (10725 ft), which meant we were to climb uphill all the way. The trek passed through a dense forest where we could listen to chirping of birds continuously. I am not good in recognizing uncommon birds through their calls, but could not miss the piu-piu of handsome pied crested cuckoo. We also saw groups of monkeys and langurs too, but they kept their distance from us, unlike their urban brethren. Now Pindari River was giving us company. Across, there were frequent sighting of water falls. Drinking water from these falls was very refreshing and rejuvenating; no doubt we were able to go up and down long distances. We reached Dwali midway which too has a KMVN rest house, and had our lunch there, and resumed our walk soon after. From Dwali, one trek cuts off to Kafni glacier also. At a distant mountain, guide of another group pointed out to a pair of mountain goats (bharel). We were constantly gaining height with wind becoming chillier, and tree line gradually thinning away. From dense forest, we were entering dense mountains covered only with shrubs and small vegetation. We managed to reached Phurkiya quite on time and were in good shape, and comfortable mentally too having come so far. We were at 3250m (11,000ft)and ready to celebrate Vasu's birthday; Leena had brought a cake all the way from Delhi for the evening. Amazingly, Vasu has celebrated his birthday on quite a few such places. Now the zero point was only 5 km of comfortable walk. The sky was clear, and even with chill outside, we felt great sitting outside and looking at moon and snow covered peaks appearing so near. They were changing colour with each passing hour. After dinner we slept early, since we were supposed to start our onward march next morning at 5 am.


5th Day: Phurkiya to Zero Point, and back to Dwali: 21 km
Though zero point was only 5 km away, but it would certainly test us with thinning air and very bright sun on a clear sky. As we advanced, we began to see many peaks which surround Nanda Devi; though, you do not get to see Nanda Devi herself. I had seen Nanda Devi in her full glory a few years ago at Auli. The peaks visible were Baljuri, Pawali dwar, Nanda Khat, Chhangoj, and Nanda Kot. About 2 km before the zero point, the trek culminated into a huge meadow. It was covered with flowers of many colours, almost looking like valley of flowers. There was a hut of a Babaji who has been living there for last 15 years. He looks after the tired trekkers with tea and food, and tells them some interesting stories. It was a magnificent experience being surrounded by snow covered peaks all around. What would I not sacrifice to be able to spend a few days in this bliss! Zero point was still a kilometer away. Normally at zero point the usual trek ends at the glacier. However, here it is just a convenient point, though the glacier is still quite far, having receded by a few kilometers. We were now at nearly 12,500 ft. I reached zero point only to feel sad, the magnificent Pindari glacier about which I had heard and read so much, was now only a rudimentary thing. Instead of a frozen river, it appeared to be a frozen water fall hanging in air as if it had been amputated in between. I did not know whom to blame; global warming, but what is causing this global warming?
Return journey: on our way back we stayed overnight at Dwali and then Dhakuri. On reaching Bageshwar, we immediately left for Kausani to stay there overnight. We returned via Almorah where we stopped for ‘samosa’ and ‘jalebi’. Before we reached Delhi, we got stuck in massive traffic jams at two places delaying our return by at least 4 hours. But no complaints; we all were jubilant having done the trek successfully and as per our itinerary. Will I repeat the trek: perhaps, yes, for Kafni and Sunder Dhunga!

TRAGEDY STRIKES MAITRI

Tragedy struck Maitri, the permanent Indian station at Antarctica when it lost its valued scientist, Mr Kuldeep Wali, on the 1st June 2009. Shri Kuldeep Wali a professional meteorologist with India Meteorological Department was deputed to Antarctica as a member of the winter over team of the 28th Indian Scientific Antarctic Expedition in November 2008 and was expected to return to India by November 2009. Born on 12th April 1952, Shri Kuldeep Wali passed way on Monday the 1st June 2009 at Indian Research Base Maitri, Antarctica in service to the nation. He suffered a massive acute myocardial infarction at 11:45 UTC (17:15 Hrs IST). Doctors struggled hard with all possible treatment but could not revive him and pronounced him dead at 12:20 UTC (17:50 Hrs IST). He is survived by his wife Smt. Rita Wali and daughter Ms. Ranshu Wali.
Shri Kuldeep Wali left National Centre of Antarctic and Ocean Research, Goa on the 17th November 2008 along with the second contingent of the 28th ISEA. He reached Novo airbase in Antarctica in the early hours of 22nd June flying all the way to Antarctica via Cape Town. Ever since his arrival at Maitri, he was actively involved in research and other work related to the Maitri station until he breathed his last.
It has been the most unfortunate thing that could happen at Maitri. The family of Mr Wali back home was obviously in shock and disbelief. However, it courageously and respectfully accepted the fact of life and requested for an early cremation at Maitri itself. Otherwise the body would have been preserved there and flown to Delhi only in November later this year when the air-flights resume with start of the summer season. Though the winds are very strong and the temperatures very low during polar nights, the wintering members found a huge boulder about a km downwind of the station and carried out the cremation in stormy winds there on the 11th June. It must have been an unnerving experience for the whole wintering team stationed currently at Maitri.
Losing and cremating a team member after spending nearly 6-8 months with him must have needed volumes of mental strength on their part to go through the process of bereavement during the icy and frozen conditions of Polar nights of Antarctica at this time of the year.

Through this blog, I pay my humble homage to Mr Kuldeep Wali, and pay my sincere condolences to the family to bear this irreparable loss with courage and dignity.