Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Naming of Schirmacher Oasis

By now you know that the Indian station, Maitri, is situated in East Antarctica in an area called Schirmacher Oasis. Its coordinates are 70° 46´ South and 11° 44´ East. You can see it in Google Earth with these coordinates, though the image there is perhaps a couple of years old. There is an interesting story how this area was named 'Schirmacher'.


In the early 20th Century many countries, Britain, France, Norway, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina and Chile, were staking claims to different parts of Antarctica. However, the dispute arose how to divide the entire continent among these seven countries. It was proposed to divide it in sectors with South Pole as centre. Germany, under Hitler, too got interested in Antarctica for its commercial exploitation and whaling operation and decided to launch an expedition to map the area. The impetus for an expedition came ostensibly from Germany's growing desire to rebuild and enlarge the whaling fleet of seven whalers (mostly chartered) and 50 hunting boats. Goring, chief of the Luftwaffe, was asked to grant the use of aeroplanes to a proposed Antarctic expedition.


Hitler's Germany never had recognized the 'sector theory' of Antarctica. Under this theory, the southernmost nations of the world, and those conducting active research in the south Polar Regions, could lay claim to certain parts of the Antarctic continent.


The Germans lawyers, however, had another theory. German experts in international law considered that to lay claim to new territory one had to do it physically, by occupation, or at least symbolically, for example by staking it out as gold diggers had done in the old American West. So one of the first things, the expedition did, was to prepare aluminium darts each one and a half metres (5 ft) long, their tails engraved with the national flag, the swastika. It was intended to drop these darts every 20 to 30 km along the flight paths. Tests on alpine glaciers had shown that when thrown from a plane the darts penetrated at least 30 cm even into solid ice. The shaft stuck out as a marker.


Lufthansa agreed to lend the expedition its ship Schwabenland, and the ship's two hydroplanes Boreas and Passat, 10-tonne Dornier Super Wals. They were pusher propeller aircraft, and each carried a pilot, a navigator, mechanic and photographer. The captains, Rudolf Wahr and Richardheinrich Schirmacher, were also on loan from Lufthansa. The Schwabenland's main feature was a powerful catapult which was used to launch the aeroplane. It could accelerate a load of up to 14 tonnes to a take off speed of 150 kmph.


On 17th December 1938 the Schwabenland left the port of Hamburg and on 20 January 1939, near the edge of the Antarctic pack ice, the Schwabenland dropped anchor at 69°14´S, 4°30´W. The Lufthansa crew took a great number of colour photographs. After seven long-distance missions the flying ended on 23 January when they recorded six reels of film with 1800 frames. They showed an area of 250,000 sq km. Most of the photographs covered land between 11°W and 19°E, the borders 'staked out' by aluminium darts thrown from the planes.

Later, in Germany, some detailed maps were produced based on the Schwabenland photographs. The surveyed area was called the New Schwabenland and the important peaks and areas were named after German explorers such as Alexander von Humboldt, Georg von Neumayer, Erich von Drygalski, Wilhelm Filchner, and the pilots named above. World War II prevented further German expeditions. The next German station called Neumayer, from West Germany, came only in 1981.


That is the story of Schirmacher Oasis.


(Reference: Antarctica: Reader's Digest, 1985)

My note: For becoming multimillionaire overnight, find one of those aluminium darts.

Sunday, January 27, 2008

Jay Hind !!

I live in a metropolis having population of approx 15 millions. I haven't exchanged so many "Happy Republic Day" there in a single day as I have within a couple of hours of this morning living with only 75 people at Maitri, Antarctica. How patriotic, nationalists and religious do we become! I realized it when I spent two years in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia during 1982-84. We attended so many religious events at other Indians' homes in two years as never before in our lives; it is another matter that each such event gave an ample opportunity to the host to display his / her culinary skills, her newly acquired cooking set, table ware, electronic gadget or the latest from Bollywood. Invariably the evening would end with a game of playing cards. It was same with the national functions when we went to the Indian Embassy when most of us usually experienced an indifferent welcome there.

At Maitri there have been messages a galore from various departments, centres, and institutions involved in Antarctica expedition. There are messages from the Secretary as well as Minister of Ministry of Earth Sciences (Shri Kapil Sibal) too. All have applauded our courage etc and how proud they all have been of us.

The weather continues to be inclement; our international guests did not arrive. Even for snow vehicles the tracks are not too good. There are wide gaps in the snow cover due to rising of temperature in last few weeks. With so much of wind, the visibility can go down any time due to snow drift. Some of our team members, who had gone to the Novo airbase two days ago for extending invitation, had to spend the night there only. I am sure they did not have with change of scene and food.

Since early morning in Maitri lounge the music system was dishing out all patriotic songs from early 1950s to the latest Bollywood hits. It reminded me of All India Radio in the era of no FM and satellite TV. The flag hoisting had its lighter moments too when the Tricolour refused to oblige in the first attempt. It unfurled only in the second attempt. Blame it on Antarctica.

BRRR...Prepping For A Cold (Indian) Republic Day!


Tomorrow we celebrate the Republic Day in the morning with flag hoisting at 11.30 am. Our both the leaders (of the 26th and 27th expeditions) are stranded at the ship due to inclement weather which is worse around ship. The ship is in the grip of a blizzard. Here too, the weather is quite cold and windy with maximum wind gust crossing 50 knots and minimum wind chill at -30 C. Both the leaders had gone there to finalize arrangements for its sailing to Larsmann Hill. The leader of the 26th Team must be ruing his decision to go to the ship. He misses his chance to hoist the Tricolor on a Republic Day in Antarctica. Last year he set foot on Antarctica in February only. Though he has wintered here earlier but not as the leader. With this much cold, it will be quite difficult to file in outside for 15 minutes till the flag hoisting and photographic sessions. We all will have to muster all our courage and patriotic fervour in not looking distressed esp. in front of guests. We are getting guests as usual from the Russian station, Novo air base and the couple from the White Desert Safari tourist agency. Camera operations with thick gloves become a difficult task and without gloves the hands get painful within a minute. Normally the transfer of command between the two leaders takes place on the Republic Day. But now his tenure gets extended.

Friday, January 25, 2008

Om, the Survivor


Unfortunately the chick did not survive. I myself discovered it under some stones away from the nesting area. I felt very sad and could not do anything. I just sat there on a stone praying. I had wished that both chicks should grow and fly away from here to their distant destination. I am not sure what caused its death. It could not have been due to lack of food or weather. There is evidence of availability of plenty of food; there are remnants of freshly killed snow petrels (skua's pet game bird) strewn all over. So far weather has also not been too inclement. I wonder whether its elimination was through the process of natural selection. It is known to occur in case of Adelie penguin when it lays two eggs. It selects the fitter chick to survive in a very practical but merciless manner. I shall tell you its story some time.

I have named the surviving chick 'Om'. Shiv and Uma are no longer hostile to my presence. They do not issue any threatening or alarming calls. Om gets restless to my presence which I try to keep bare minimum. I wish that it remains hostile to my presence and grows up with its all natural and wild instincts intact enabling it to survive and thrive in this hostile world.

Shiva and Uma, past entries-
  1. A Bird's Nest http://himalayanadventurer.blogspot.com/2007/12/birds-nest.html

  2. A Bird Attack http://himalayanadventurer.blogspot.com/2007/12/bird-attack.html

  3. Shiv and Uma Blessed with Baby http://himalayanadventurer.blogspot.com/2007/12/shiv-uma-blessed-with-baby.html

  4. Shiv and Uma's Family http://himalayanadventurer.blogspot.com/2008/01/shiva-and-umas-family.html

  5. Update on Shiv and Uma's Family http://himalayanadventurer.blogspot.com/2008/01/update-on-shiv-and-umas-family.html

Exiting Wintering IAE

I have begun on my interviewing the departing members of the 26th IAE (Indian Antarctic Expedition). I get along with almost all of them quite well who have shared their experiences with me. Now I am talking to them in a more structured and informal way. No, it is not to do with the psychological or psychiatric assessment. I am talking to them on their usual and unusual experiences here, their physical and mental preparations back home before departure, and how they prepared their families to live without them for next 15 months. It is giving me some new insights. Chitra, let me preempt you: I am not planning anything. I may be suggested, advised, tempted, offered, coaxed, requested or ordered, I do not think I can handle a long winter stay here. Many people think my temperament suits it; however, it will be a big let down.

Let it Snow, Let it Snow



The weather is just exhilarating, though most of members won't agree with me. Since evening 6 pm it is snowing. Now the time is 9.45 pm. The snow fall is not heavy but is continuous. And this snow fall is very different as compared to what I have seen elsewhere is India, England or America. We are usually used to snow falling as soft flakes; however, here it is like grains of salt. Outside my hut the foot mat is totally white now. The weather prediction is that it will continue like this for next 2-3 days. In Delhi, the Republic Day celebrations are on many occasions on a wet or windy day. Let us see if we get to celebrate here a white 26 January.

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Fads and Fables



My current fad is now taking water directly from the lake. Normally, water is pumped from Priyadarshani Lake, stored in a huge tank to suffice for the Maitri station as well as summer camp. What we drink is a stored and filtered version. Normally I am not a great enthusiast of water filters at our homes too. Most of the homes do not service them properly and hence filters become a potential area and source of micro-organism breeding activity. Many of the wintering members of the 26th team also take water from the source. They were a step ahead. When snow was in abundance before the summer season set in, they would bring bucketful of white sparkling snow from glaciers around Maitri and let it melt in the warmth of their heated rooms. Now the lakes have been thawed and one could collect water itself. By the way, with temperature dropping now, some of the shallow ponds have started freezing once again. So I also go to a nearby lake and bring fresh water for my consumption in my hut. Yesterday water was freezing cold and after filling the bottle I had to rush to the bathroom to put my hand in the hot water, though it took no more than a minute or two for my bottle to fill up.

The supply of honey has exhausted and new supply is yet to be offloaded. However, my 'sattu and gur' in the morning is regular. Members view it as a weird, fascinating or healthy habit, but no one has taken a fancy to it in spite of my offering to prepare a drink for them.

If I return home with some weight gain, it will not be because of consumption of butter, juices, or ice creams. It will be because of having tea full of milk and sugar. People here are used to take tea much much sweeter than the tea available at road side stalls on highways. You must take it as a sign of my popularity that when I visit Annapurna hut (our 24 hour pantry), someone is always willing to make a cup of tea for me. I do not refuse them and in the process I have to take tea syrup in spite of my telling them to put less sugar and milk. I have decided to switch over to coffee since not being used to taking coffee they listen to my instructions for making it. In any case I take coffee without sugar.

In keeping up with my storytelling from 'Chanda Mama', sometimes on Tuesday evenings at the Maitri temple after bhajans and aarati, I sometimes tell the attendees a fable from my childhood. This evening I told them the story of a boy and his step-mother where the mother prays to the God to make her son like an ant, grass and dust and also that he should always have too much hunger and sleep. I must have told you people at least on more than one occasion.

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