Time Capsule

The Indian Scientific Expedition to Antarctica (IAE) started in 1981 and established its first station, Dakshin Gangotri, in 1983 and then became member of the Antarctic Teay Consultative Meeting. Since then India has been sending scientific expeditions every year. In 1989, India established its second station, Maitri, in Schirmacher Oasis.

India is now establishing its third station at Larsemann Hills. The present expedition, 27th IAE, was flagged off from Goa in December 2007 and reached Larsemann Hills on 24th February, 2008 after spending 6 weeks at Maitri where it established India’s first Earth station.
The leader of the wintering team at Maitri of the 27th IAE is Mr Arun Chaturvedi, while the leader of the Indian expedition to Larsemann Hills is Mr Ajay Dhar. Both the leaders are veterans of many expeditions to Antarctica. The current objective of the Expedition to Larsemann Hills was to carry out a detailed survey of the area for establishing its station, Bharti, on coordinates of latitude of 69 degrees 10 min to 69 degrees 14 min South and longitude of 76 degrees 24 min to 76 degrees 25 min East.

This Time Capsule is being lowered in the Indian Ocean from the ship, Emerald Sea by the team of the Indian Expedition to Larsemann Hills on 23rd March, 2008, a sunny and bright day, with following coordinates:
Time: 8 am GMT (UTC)
Longitude: 36 degrees 27.18 min South
Longitude: 24 degrees 39.38 min East
Wind: 17 knots
Temp: 20 degrees C
Ship’s speed: 12.2 knots

Belated Holi Greetings!

HAPPY HOLI!!

This morning we celebrated Holi with much gusto. The day was ideal for playing Holi on the open deck. It was bright and sunny day with comfortable wind and calm sea. For last two days a few people were busy making dishes to be served: baalu-shahi, shakkar-para, masala-daal, masala-chane, gunjiya etc. In absence of bhang, rum was liberally added to the fruit-punch. And one member showed ingenuity in making colours in absence of abir-gulal. With the help of turmeric powder and food colors, two colours were prepared. One went a step further. He emptied a few ball pens and added another colour to the bright yellow and bright red. People enjoyed putting colour on my beard and getting photographed with me. So it was a fun party on the deck with the Russian crew watching from the safe distance, though they were invited to join. The NZ pilots came very briefly with the condition that no colour would be put on them. All the three have grown quite fond of Indian sweets, esp, gulab-jamun and besan-ki-barfi. Lee is carrying a few packets of gulab-jamun ready-mix to make it back home for his wife and daughters. Later a few crew members joined; only a red ‘tika’ was put on their forehead. The few albatross must be wondering what is happening, such a thing never happened on earlier ships! They were not looking for food. It hunts its own fish and also scavenges on the carcasses of whales and seals.

Young Indian Scientists in Antarctica

Originally meant for posting on March 23rd:

The 27th Indian Antarctic Expedition will have many achievements to its credit, for example, installation of Earth Station, detailed survey of Larsemann Hills in record time, and others. However, one of the major highlights of the 27th Indian Antarctica Expedition is the inclusion of number of young scientists in its summer as well as winter teams. Out of a total of 50 scientists (in summer and winter teams combined) in the 27th IAE, 8 scientists are 32 years or younger. The youngest is just 23 years in age. Many of them are still at the universities engaged in their doctoral research programme.

Geological Survey of India (GSI) is one of the oldest organizations in India engaged in surveys. It is doing pioneering work in Antarctica since the inception of India’s Antarctic programme and has given many distinguished scientists and expedition leaders to Antarctic expeditions. The present 27th IAE is fortunate in having Mr Arun Chaturvedi as its leader who is spending his fourth winter in Antarctica and his third as the leader of the team. Mr Chaturvedi is leading a team of five scientists from GSI of whom two are just 32 years in age. Ashit Kumar Swain studied, during the Austral summer phase of 24 hours daylight, the characteristics of the shear zones exposed in length and breadth of Schirmacher region and their implications in the evolution of this area. He also monitored the movement of the Dakshin Gangotri glacier snout to study the impact of global warming on glaciers. During the austral winter phase at Maitri, he plans to utilize the ground penetrating radar (GPR) for the measurement of water column depths, snow-ice interface and bed rock depth in different lakes of Schirmacher region. This study will be helpful in carrying out further research work on the lakes and finding a safe passage for convoy route to transport fuel, food and all other necessary material from India bay shelf region to Maitri station. Amit Mondal spending summer months at Maitri and Larsemann Hills studied the crustal evolutionary history of Larsemann Hills area, East Antarctica and the Eastern Ghats (India). The geology of Larsemann Hills is particularly relevant in Indian context to correlate it with Eastern Ghats. As per the Gondwanaland continent theory, the Eastern Ghats area in India was joined with Larsemann Hills before the supercontinent broke into different land masses.

Indian Institute of Geomagnetism is another institute in India which is closely associated with Antarctic expeditions and has given many scientists and leaders towards this endeavor. Mr Ajay Dhar, a senior scientist at the IIG, is one of the stalwarts of India having multiple exposures in Antarctica. He has spent two winters (one as Leader) and several summer seasons here. As a member of the 27th IAE, he is the leader of Larsemann Hills expedition where India is building its third station. Under his guidance, Anand Kumar Singh, Research Fellow at the IIG is monitoring geomagnetic variations and atmospheric measurements, with the help of continuous operation of GPS receiver, like total electron content (TEC), water vapour content and meteorological parameters. The newly coming up Indian station in the Larsemann Hills (69.20 degrees South, 76.40 degree East) is situated in the auroral zone while the present station, Maitri (70.45 degrees south, 11.45 degrees east) in Schirmacher Oasis lies in sub-auroral zone. The simultaneous geomagnetism measurements at Larsemann Hills and Maitri will be helpful in predicting space weather in future. IIG completed the ground work for installing an Imaging Riometer at Maitri during this expedition, which will be installed during the 28th IAE (2008-09). The instrument will provide information on layer absorption; and along with Magnetometers will also provide information on the physical processes taking place in deep magnetosphere.
Jai Prakash Chaubey, Research Fellow at Space Physics Lab, Vikram Sarabhai Space Centre (ISRO) is studying the land based anthropogenic impact of coarse particles on Antarctic shelf. These aerosols particles have a great impact on climate (global warming) and influence the biological activities. This study aims to determine the physical and chemical characteristics of these aerosols with the help of instruments, which are able to give mass, size and chemical composition of the particles of Antarctic environment.

Pramod Kumar, Research Fellow at the Department of Limnology, Barkatullah University, Bhopal is comparing the impact of Anthropogenic Activities on Flora and Fauna of Antarctic and High Altitude Himalayan Lakes of Ladakh. Limnology is the branch of science that studies the physical, chemical and biological characteristics of fresh water or inland water. The study will attempt to answer the complex question whether anthropogenic activities in these areas lead to any pollution load or not. The study will also compare the past and present environment of Antarctic and Himalayan regions by studying the floral and faunal biodiversity of these areas.
Purushottam Bhawre from the National Physical Laboratory, New Delhi is wintering at Maitri to investigate the magnetospheric-ionospheric coupling between high and low latitude related to space weather events during International Polar Year. This study is significant since ionosphere plays an important role for long distance HF communications as well as affects the satellite communication and navigation services especially in high and equatorial latitudes.

Sudipta Sasmal, Centre for Space Physics, Kolkata is studying the global tectonic plate movements and earthquake precursory studies. The instruments/antennas will constantly monitor the signals from VLF stations throughout the world and data will be analyzed and stored in the data banks. The significance of the present work is that during the last few days preceding a major earthquake, when the tectonic plates begin to crack and micro-electric discharge ionizes the lower part of the ionosphere surrounding the earthquake preparation zone, the modulation of the signals has already started taking place. Thus, this procedure gives warning several days ahead of time as opposed to only a few hours in other warning methods. Thus it will be possible to warn the public well in time for earthquakes as well as for Tsunami.

Rudra Pratap Singh, Department of Environmental Sciences, Dr R.M.L. Avadh University, Faizabad will study the influence of Ultraviolet-B radiation on survivorship and pigment concentration of flora over Schirmacher Oasis in Antarctica. The study is important in view of the increasing global concern of ozone depletion which is believed to have been reduced up to 50% over Antarctica over last two decades. Thus, a significant amount of harmful UV-B radiation is entering the atmosphere at a higher intensity. The organisms which are not accustomed to this high level of UV radiation will be adversely affected suppressing their photoautotrophic productions. If the primary producers are threatened it will be difficult for the survival of higher trophic level organisms.

Soumya Biswas, Visva Bharati, West Bengal is involved in the assessment of microbial biodiversity of Antarctic soil and its implications for future. Conservation of biodiversity as a lone issue may not sound profitable but biodiversity is the source from where the important exploitable organisms may come. The project intends to accomplish the primary observation to discover that fermentation process, precursor of a useful product, is taking place within a microorganism. Fermentation processes obtain most of the exploitable biotechnological microbial products.

The enthusiasm and work of these young people is exemplary, weathering long working hours in biting and freezing temperatures and piercing winds. It is highly encouraging and reassuring that India’s scientific future is in safe hands.

(Acknowledgement: Mr Ajay Dhar, Leader, 27th Indian Scientific Expedition to Larsemann Hills)

Non-vegetarians

I am sure Ishu will smile and have a laugh of the day when I write about people’s non-veg eating habits. We have had intense debate on this topic earlier. I concede that I stand corrected. I believed that in India the practice of eating non-veg meal even in non-veg eating families is only once or twice a week. However, it does not seem to be true if we consider the people currently on the ship. Though they are not true representatives of Indian population, yet it indicates a trend. Out of 33 Indian members on the ship, only 5 are vegetarians, and of these 5 four take eggs. So only one out of 33 is true vegetarian. Non-veg dish is served every day here in both the meals and, of course, people consume it. Even on Tuesday, which is considered a taboo for consumption of liquor and non-veg food by most Hindus in India, more than half consume it here. I think the frequency of non-veg food consumption depends, perhaps, on affordability, accessibility and feasibility. The recent dietary surveys done in India also indicate more than 50 percent people being non-vegetarians.

4 Months 60 Degrees South

Originally meant for posting March 17th

On 14th March I completed four months in Antarctica below 60 degrees South. Once we cross this latitude we are no longer in Antarctica.

How should I look at the last four months: an achievement, a dream fulfilled, another name on the list of places that I have visited, or an adventure?

To be honest, coming to Antarctica is no longer an adventure, not the way I have come here. Adventure it was when great explorers like Scott, Shackleton and Amundsen came here taking all the risks, ready to save lives and willing to sacrifice own life. However, since then the world has changed far too much. Earlier, coming to Antarctica was itself an adventure. Now people have to devise means to discover adventure and set records in Antarctica by doing things no one has done before. For example, skiing all the way to the South Pole, or using kites to reach South Pole, or being the youngest to reach there, or to be the first to cross the Trans-Antarctic Mountains. Current advances in travel, communications, computers and information technology have made things far too easier for someone like me to come here.

What was my contribution in making my visit to Antarctica possible? Well, I only had to submit a reasonably viable scientific project to NCAOR to be undertaken at the Antarctica. After that it was all the efforts of the Logistics team of NCAOR to plan entire visit for me and the rest of the group. My travel both ways, coming to Antarctica by air and returning by sea, was taken care of by the Logistics team. At Maitri we all got heated cabins to stay; had the luxury of 24 hour hot and cold water supply; round the clock power supply; email and telephone facilities; and choice and variety of food items. We had assistance of huge ice class ship, Ilyushin cargo plane, helicopters, and snow vehicles to assist us in all our needs and make life far too simple for us in Antarctica. If anything was lacking it could be flown from Cape Town during the summer months when Ilyushin flights were operational.

I have truly found Antarctica an amazing place. It is unique in all its characteristics, too numerous to mention here. The temperatures, snow and ice, freezing of ocean, glaciers and icebergs of Antarctica are unparallel. The adaptation of wild life, penguins and seals for example, to survive here is unique. However, what I will remember the most later will be the time I spent with members in Antarctica when they shared their experiences, frustrations, achievements, aspirations, and dreams.

I have gained immensely by coming to Antarctica in many ways besides knowledge or experiences. I could not have been richer elsewhere. I think it has widened my horizon in relation to time and space. Difficult to express, but is it like looking at the whole existence of Mankind as inconsequential?

More on Seasickness

Originally meant for posting on March 15th

The ship is moving forward at snail’s speed with its rolling and pitching. In the morning the sea had become very rough with very high wind speed. A number of people are obviously seasick but trying to keep a brave front. For breakfast not more than 20 came; for lunch the attendance was a little better. However, for dinner again the attendance was thin. Consumption of diet has also decreased. People try to hide their being seasick when they know it fully well that it is natural to have seasickness. You meet them in the corridors and they look as if they have just seen a ghost. When you ask them their welfare, you can easily see their brave effort in smiling and hiding their unpleasantness. They may be feeling suicidal or wishing for making a euthanasia plea, but still they would respond that they are feeling on top of world. There is no foolproof mantra to combat the seasickness. At very rough sea, everyone would experience it till one gets acclimatized. One should not try to hide the fact of being seasick; no shame or embarrassment in acknowledging it. Do not isolate yourself. Do not hide yourself in the room trying to read a book. Be physically active as much as possible. I keep on climbing up or down the stairs for no other purpose. People also recommend looking at the waves, the very reason for being sick, to condition the brain with the movements. Finally, there are medicines that can be helpful.

The rolling ship makes the gait quite unsteady. We have to walk taking frequent support of the wall or the railings. Carrying a food plate from the serving bowls to the dinning table is a big balancing challenge. I acted like a tipsy in the lounge amusing everybody there.

I guess that the experience of being seasick while going from Indian bay to the Larsemann Hills conditioned my vestibular apparatus; I haven’t felt sick though the sea is experiencing more rolling and pitching.

What the Great Explorers Said on Reaching South Pole

People do not head off to Antarctica to avoid risk; they go there because risk is exactly what they seek.
In last 100 years, Antarctica has not changed much; our own world has advanced at a frightening pace. Technological developments in air travel and computers have compacted everything, diminishing the last great wildernesses. Suddenly, the planet Earth is a much smaller place. For good or bad, this fact enables people like me, who are fragile and unadventurous in comparison, to follow in the footsteps of great explorers and reach for the same goal. We are product of that advance and piggyback off it to our advantage.

Patrick Woodhead; British explorer and author of ‘Misadventures at South Pole’

“…but all in not the Pole. Man can only do his best…Better to be a live donkey than a dead lion.”
Shackleton in a letter to his wife on turning back his Nimrod Expedition 93 miles short of 90 degree South

“It is the sad part of expedition of this kind that one systematically kills all better feelings, until only hard-hearted egoism remains.”
Fridtjof Nansen, Norwegian explorers, 1988

“Antarctic’s terrible interior tries to turn men into its own image – frozen!”
Will Steger, Trans-Antarctic explorer

“We had suffered, starved, and triumphed, groveled down yet grasped at the glory, grown bigger in the bigness of the whole. We had seen God in his splendours, heard the text nature renders. We had reached the naked soul of man”
Shackleton’s account of the Endurance expedition

“Just by taking a couple of paces, a person could walk round the world. They would cross every time zone on the planet, traverse every line of longitude. This was the end point, the place where everything converged.”
Patrick Woodhead; British explorer and author

“There is very little that is different from the awful monotony of the past few days. Great God! This is an awful place terrible enough for us to have laboured here without the reward of priority…now for run home and desperate struggle. I wonder if we can make it.”
George Scott in his diary after being beaten by Amundsen in his race to South Pole by 35 days.

“I can not say – though I know it would sound much more effective – that the object of my life was attained- that would be romancing it rather too bare-facedly…The regions around the North Pole – well, yes, the North Pole itself – had attracted me from childhood, and here I was standing at the South Pole. Can anything more topsy-turvy be imagined?”
Amundsen, on being the first man to reach South Pole